For Sale: The ‘Sexiest’ Hourly Rate Hotel in New York’s Manhattan – Product development in the era of digital transformation and sustainability – A Design Gallery Ready for Its Close-Up – A Celebration of Style With Substance – How Americans are feeling about economic opportunities and the future – Off Brand: The Ultimate Yuppie Status Symbol, a Diamond Tennis Bracelet, Goes Mass – An appraisal: Why Steve Jobs Chose This Designer’s Turtlenecks 

Dear Readers,

Today and after five weeks of non-publishing time, TextileFuture offers to you seven different features.

The first item is “For Sale: The ‘Sexiest’ Hourly Rate Hotel in New York’s Manhattan”. It allows you an inside view with many photographs and it is well written.

The second feature is entitled “Product development in the era of digital transformation and sustainability”. It is written by various guest authors from McKinsey.

The third item bears the title “A Design Gallery Ready for Its Close-Up” and it portraits a particular Design Gallery in a historic villa in California.

The fourth feature is entitled “A Celebration of Style With Substance”. It allows to participate at particularly intimate gathering at a private home with a presentation of the luxury collection of Mytheresa.

The fifth item has the title “How Americans are feeling about economic opportunities and the future”, it is based upon a report by the McKinsey Institute.

The sixth feature bears the title “Off Brand: The Ultimate Yuppie Status Symbol, a Diamond Tennis Bracelet, Goes Mass”, it gives you the historic background for its exsistence with some prominent voices.

The seventh item is an appraisal of the late Japanese Designer Issey Miyake and is entitled “An appraisal: Why Steve Jobs Chose This Designer’s Turtlenecks”. It gives you many details on the extraordinary personality of Miyake and his creative development.

Don’t shy away to read all of these items, because we offer to you only some texts, but ample photographs as illustration.

May your week be full of success and positive surprises for you and your organisation!

For Sale: The ‘Sexiest’ Hourly Rate Hotel in New York’s Manhattan

The owner calls the Liberty Inn “the cleanest short-stay hotel in town.” But in a changing neighborhood, “a hotel like this doesn’t make sense,” he says.

By guest authr Alex Vadukul from the New York Times.

The Liberty Inn, the last hourly rate hotel in Manhattan’s meatpacking district, sits alone on a tiny triangular block beside the West Side Highway. Its website bills its rooms as the “most sexiest” in the city, and for nearly 50 years it has provided sanctuary for bouts of afternoon passion, clandestine affairs and lunchtime quickies.

So when it was reported that it had been put on the market with hopes of fetching about USD 25 million, I decided to check in, to bear witness to a kinky vestige of old New York before it was gone.

The hotel is a nondescript three-story brick building with a burgundy awning at the entrance. Long before Google’s New York headquarters sprouted up a few blocks away, the hotel’s pint-size building endured decades of change, persisting through several cycles of Lower Manhattan history.

In place of meatpacking plants and after-hours clubs, there are now brunch spots for the tech crowd and boutique hotels, including the Standard, with its penthouse night spot Le Bain. Across the highway, Little Island, built at an estimated cost of USD 260 million by the mogul Barry Diller, rises out of the Hudson.

In the early 1900s, it was the Strand Hotel, a boardinghouse for sailors. When the Titanic sank in 1912, and the Carpathia arrived with its survivors at Pier 54, The New York Times rented out rooms at the Strand for reporters to file dispatches about the disaster. In the late 1960s it was called the Hide-a-Way Motel. And until the mid-1980s, the hotel shared the building with the Anvil, a famed gay nightclub.

 

The Liberty Inn occupies its own concrete island in a neighborhood that was once home to sailors and meatpackers.Credit…Jeenah Moon for The New York Times.

: The Liberty Inn occupies its own concrete island in a neighborhood that was once home to sailors and meatpackers.Credit…Jeenah Moon for The New York Times

When I stopped by last week, a family of tourists was buying ice cream from a truck parked out front. Inside the narrow lobby, a vending machine sells condoms, cookies and candy, and the front desk is protected by a window of bulletproof glass. A sign listed the room rates: USD 95 for a two-hour stay; USD 155 for six hours.

“Just you?” the concierge asked.

I nodded.

“OK, fine, but someone can’t come and join you after.”

He slipped me a key through the slot, and soon I entered room No. 204, a cozy den bathed in red light. The bed had a faux reptile-skin headboard. Hanging above it was a ceiling mirror accented with cloud drawings. Purell packets sat on the night stand. A sign by the door read: “ALWAYS Turn Knob on Lock to Prevent Mistaken Entry!”

A black stump-like object sat against a wall. I soon discovered that it unfolded and realized it was the Liberator, a wedgelike apparatus that helps lovers contort into imaginative positions. The room was pristine, but I discovered one scrawl of passion on the Liberator’s surface: a faint handprint.

When I caught my reflection in the ceiling mirror, I experienced a flashback to my own encounter with the Liberty when I was 21 or so. I was just starting to see someone, but we both still lived at home with our parents, and so one night we took a blurry cab ride to the Liberty. What ensued is fuzzy, but I remember that an iPhone, tucked into a cup for amplification, was used to play Arcade Fire, and a Jolly Rancher got stuck to someone’s hair. The clumsy adventure ended two hours later, but it bonded us, and the relationship became the first serious romance of my life.

 

The phone rang toward the end of my brief stay.

“Fifteen minutes,” the concierge said.

On my way out, I hoarded a bunch of Liberty Inn-branded products like slippers and soap bars as keepsakes, and I’ve since added them to my collection of old New York ephemera: matchbooks from Toots Shor and Maxwell’s Plum, coat check tags from the Four Seasons, a swizzle stick from the Waldorf Astoria.

The Tour

For a few days, I’d been trying to contact the Liberty’s owner, who, according to an 2011 article in The Times, was named Robert Boyd, but I was having trouble reaching him. I also grew confused, because an article in Crain’s New York Business about the building’s prospective sale said the owner was a man named Edward Raboy.

On a return visit to the hotel, I told the concierge I was the journalist who had been calling and asked if either Robert or Edward were around. He made a phone call, relaying to someone that I’d arrived, and then he grinned and told me: “They’re the same guy.”

Momentarily, a man in his 70s wearing glasses and a hearing aid walked down the stairs to meet me. He said he was Mr. Raboy and politely explained that he had used the name Robert Boyd as an alias over the years to help him deal with the idiosyncrasies that can come with running a business as peculiar as the Liberty Inn.

“What does it matter now?” he told me. “I’ve got nothing to hide.”

Mr. Raboy said his father had run the establishment when it was called the Hide-a-Way, adding that he took over in 1977, back when meatpackers in bloodstained aprons still worked in the neighbourhood, and he soon started running it with his wife. He said that he was reluctant to tell his hotel’s full story, because he hoped to recount it one day in a book, but he agreed to give me a tour of its rooms.

Reflecting on his years running the Liberty, Mr. Raboy said that the decision to put the building up for sale was bittersweet, adding that it also just made sense. He cited wanting to retire and the neighborhood’s gentrification among his reasons for leaving the business.

“So much has changed since the 1970s, back when I called this area the ‘Wild West Side,’” he said. “It’s now turned into an almost sedate kind of place. What was then appropriate for a hotel like this doesn’t make sense quite the same way anymore. Above all, the building is now more valuable to other people financially, because it’s so unique.”

“Hourly hotels are like that Rodney Dangerfield quote, ‘You don’t get no respect,’” he added. “But it’s been a fabulous run.”

After the tour, I perched on the High Line just across the street to observe people entering and leaving the Liberty. One man led a woman inside with the swagger of someone who had been there before. Another pair entered with some hesitation. As I kept watching the afternoon couples emerge back into the tumult of the city, I realized they were all holding hands.

Alex Vadukul is a city correspondent for The New York Times. He writes for Styles and is a three-time winner of the New York Press Club award for city writing and a three-time winner of Silurians Press Club medallions for his feature writing. He was a longtime writer for Sunday Metropolitan and has been a reporter on the Obituaries desk. @alexvadukul

A version of this article appears in print on Aug. 11, 2022, Section D, Page 1 of the New York edition with the headline: A Risqué Vestige of Old New York

www.nytimes.com

 

Product development in the era of digital transformation and sustainability

Because of digital and sustainability trends, R&D organisations are facing an increasingly complex landscape. Developing the necessary organizational structures and capabilities is urgent.

About the authors: Konomi Goto, Tatsuya Higashida, Sumiki Hori, Azusa Iida, Saori Shimizu, Haruka Tsuchiya, Masaru Tsuchiya, and Takuya Tsuda are consultants in McKinsey’s Tokyo office, where Michihiko Kurokawa, Dmitry Mishustin, and Yuito Yamada are partners and Hiroshi Odawara and Takehito Sumikawa are senior partners; Derrick Kiker is a partner in the Chicago office; and André Rocha is a partner in the Madrid office.

Product development is in the process of a significant transformation. In December 2020, following in the footsteps of the European Commission, the Japanese government announced that it would position digital and green initiatives as the driving forces for economic recovery from the COVID-19 pandemic. Many companies have acknowledged the government’s announcement by setting ambitious targets, and R&D.

Product development is in the process of a significant transformation. In December 2020, following in the footsteps of the European Commission, the Japanese government announced that it would position digital and green initiatives as the driving forces for economic recovery from the COVID-19 pandemic. Many companies have acknowledged the government’s announcement by setting ambitious targets, and R&D organizations are addressing a range of development areas and methods to help achieve these goals.

What structures and themes must management, especially R&D leaders, consider when building an R&D organization capable of leading business growth? This article discusses two routes: the use of digital in R&D and of product development to turn decarbonization into a strength.

Digital in R&D

In addition to technology advancements in 5G, AI, and the Internet of Things, new efforts in the digital sector are under way. Digital twinning through the integration of IT and operational technology or products and software is an example. Adapting to such rapid changes requires leveraging digital technology and expertise, such as using design thinking for understanding customer needs, employing agile development for reducing development lead time, and realizing revenues from software before product launch. In other words, the skill sets of chief technology officers must be integrated with those of chief digital officers (Exhibit 1).

Product development to turn decarbonisation into a strength

For many years, product development was understood in terms of trade-offs among cost, customer value (quality and functionality), and development lead time. Sustainability is now a new factor to consider, adding to the complexity of the product development process. To succeed, companies must now learn to evaluate the balance between innovation and decarbonisation to make new product and portfolio decisions (Exhibit 2).

Read the full white paper here.

www.mckinsey.com

A Design Gallery Ready for Its Close-Up

The Future Perfect marks its 20th year with a new Los Angeles space in a historic Hollywood home.

By guest author Natalia Rachlin from the Wall Street Magazine.

A seven-bedroom neoclassical villa with palm trees and a pool, the Goldwyn House is classic Hollywood. Named for an early owner, film industry pioneer Samuel Goldwyn Sr., the 1916 residence has taken a modern turn to become the new Los Angeles outpost of the contemporary design gallery the Future Perfect. “This house represents a more permanent investment in programming, enrichment and curation in Los Angeles,” says the gallery’s founder, David Alhadeff, 48, who will also use the villa, purchased this spring, as his West Coast home. “It’s a big step for us and a real evolution in our growth.”

Founded in Brooklyn in 2003, the Future Perfect was an early champion of American design, when the scene was still very Euro-centric. The gallery has since matured into a platform for international makers exploring the intersections of art, design and craft. From tabletop items to one-of-a-kind showstoppers, the Future Perfect’s offerings are almost all purchasable through its website. Customers can add-to-cart a small USD 2,200 Halo Lamp by Bradley Bowers or a USD 96600 Collar Table by Floris Wubben or a more widely available piece from manufacturers like De La Espada and Arflex.

With locations in New York and San Francisco, the gallery has until now pursued a lease-long pop-up model in L.A., a series of inhabitable and shoppable residences done up in collectible design. The most recent, third iteration occupied a boxy 1970s sprawl in Beverly Hills.

“We’re always working on a temporal basis, but our artists are always thinking about permanence,” says Alhadeff. At Goldwyn House he plans to invite each artist who shows to leave behind an enduring intervention. “Developing site-specific, architectural work that really lives here long term, that is thrilling to me,” he says, “and thinking more about our homes as an opportunity to integrate art into the functional.” From bespoke fireplaces and windows to entire bathrooms, fixtures and fittings, the gallery is using the 7,500-square-foot home to expand further into the built environment.

 

 

The gardens too, which are being reconsidered by the landscape studio Art Luna, will be presented as a series of distinct spaces where sculptures, fountains and other outdoor installations can thrive. Fall programming will include shows from Seungjin Yang, a Korean designer known for his balloon-shaped epoxy chairs; New Jersey wood sculptor Casey McCafferty; and John Hogan, a Seattle-based glass artist.

“We are always hoping to push our artists forward in all capacities,” says Laura Young, the Future Perfect’s gallery director. “This is sort of a new era, for our designers and for our collectors. People will really be able to understand what we mean when we say, yes, John Hogan is able to do the windows of your home.”

So far, renovating Goldwyn House has been all about restoring its original features. While the bedrooms, dining room and media room will be fully functional, other areas will be designated as exhibition spaces: This fall, there will be pieces on display from Eric Roinestad, Reinaldo Sanguino, Karl Zahn, Michael Anastassiades and Lindsey Adelman. Sanguino, a ceramist, praises the gallery for its decadelong support of his work. “David has pushed me to be more ambitious,” he says, “to make things that in the past I would never have considered.”

www.wsj.com

 

https://www.partnerswsj.com/mytheresa-event-2022/p/1?mod=djemwsjmagazine

 

A Celebration of Style With Substance

Luxury retailer Mytheresa showcased its sumptuous new LIFE Collection at a sun-soaked fête in Malibu.

 

Related Video

On a warm August evening, philanthropist Kelly Meyer welcomed an intimate group of guests to her Malibu estate to celebrate the launch of Mytheresa’s new LIFE Collection. The luxury retailer, headquartered in Germany, has curated a selection of designer goods to meet the daily desires of its discerning clientele. The collection includes everything from couture table settings to high-end luggage.

“Our buying team is phenomenal,” says Heather Kaminetsky, Mytheresa’s North America president. “They really scoured to look at which brands would speak to our consumers. We’re starting with about 53 brands in the LIFE Collection, and it will grow as we glean more from our customers.”

The intimate gathering, cohosted by Kaminetsky and Meyer, was the embodiment of the Southern Californian luxe lifestyle. Attendees enjoyed a multi-course dinner set against the backdrop of OneSun Farm, Meyer’s own agricultural endeavor that sits adjacent to her home.

“Sustainability is something we feel very strongly about as an organization,” Kaminetsky says. “Kelly is a strong advocate for education around sustainable foods and food equity. While Mytheresa set the table decor, what Kelly provides is really the substance of the table. We were excited to bring this all together to celebrate the LIFE Collection.”

Meyer lauds Mytheresa’s offerings, noting that sustainability can be practiced in many different ways, including choosing to make more meaningful purchases.

“Mytheresa gives its customers the opportunity to buy something that can be enjoyed for a long time,” Meyer says. “These are pieces you’ll bring out season after season, in the same way my farm appreciates and welcomes back crops every year. They are all investments in a better future in their own away.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The intimate gathering, co-hosted by Kaminetsky and Meyer, was the embodiment of the Southern Californian luxe lifestyle. Attendees enjoyed a multi-course dinner set against the backdrop of OneSun Farm, Meyer’s own agricultural endeavor that sits adjacent to her home.

“Sustainability is something we feel very strongly about as an organization,” Kaminetsky says. “Kelly is a strong advocate for education around sustainable foods and food equity. While Mytheresa set the table decor, what Kelly provides is really the substance of the table. We were excited to bring this all together to celebrate the LIFE Collection.”

Meyer lauds Mytheresa’s offerings, noting that sustainability can be practiced in many different ways, including choosing to make more meaningful purchases.

“Mytheresa gives its customers the opportunity to buy something that can be enjoyed for a long time,” Meyer says. “These are pieces you’ll bring out season after season, in the same way my farm appreciates and welcomes back crops every year. They are all investments in a better future in their own way.”

Guests enjoy a sunset dinner SoCal style with a celebration of style and sustainability.

Wall Street Journal Custom Event is a unit of The Wall Street Journal Advertising Department. The Wall Street Journal news organisation was not involved in the creation of this content.

Explore Mytheresa  Life Collection

https://www.mytheresa.com/en-us/life.html

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www.mytheresa.com

 

How Americans are feeling about economic opportunities and the future

 

By guest author André Dua. Chris Jackson is a senior vice president at Ipsos, where Mallory Newall is a vice president. André Dua is a senior partner in McKinsey’s Miami office.

Comments and opinions expressed by interviewees are their own and do not represent or reflect the opinions, policies, or positions of McKinsey & Company or have its endorsement.

 

The American Opportunity Survey spotlights Americans’ views on the state of the economy and other trends. What did researchers find about how people think things are going and what the future holds?

In the 12th episode of McKinsey’s Future of America podcast, host André Dua is joined by Chris Jackson and Mallory Newall from Ipsos to discuss how Americans are feeling about economic well-being, using the latest release of the American Opportunity Survey to highlight key insights on opportunity, employment, inflation, childcare, and physical and mental health and to explore how sentiment on these issues looks across various demographics. The following is an edited version of their conversation.

André Dua: Welcome to the 12th episode of McKinsey’s Future of America podcast, where we’ll explore how we can build a future that drives sustainable and inclusive growth. I’m your host for today, André Dua. I’m a senior partner with McKinsey and the managing partner of our Miami office.

André Dua

Today I’m joined by Chris Jackson and Mallory Newall. Chris is a senior vice president for Ipsos. His research specialties include public opinion trends, election polling, strategic communications, and reputation. Mallory is a vice president for Ipsos, where she specializes in issues-based research, examining public opinion trends, and designing surveys for public consumption. Chris and Mallory, welcome and thanks for being here today.

Chris Jackson: It’s great to be with you.

Chris Jackson

Mallory Newall: Glad to be here.

Mallory Newall

André Dua: Before we jump in, can you tell listeners a little about each of your backgrounds?

Mallory Newall: Sure, happy to. I have been at Ipsos for the past five years, working closely with my partner-in-crime, Chris. As you mentioned, we do a lot of public-facing polling here in the US. Prior to that, I cut my teeth in research in political polling. I am currently based in Washington, DC.

Chris Jackson: I have been doing research for about two decades. I currently lead our public opinion research practice in the United States. Ipsos is part of a large global company, and I am also on the global committee that oversees a lot of our work that crosses borders. Our real mission is about elevating the voice of the people, helping bring what regular folks care about, what they’re concerned about, into the discourse, into the debate so that they’re heard in addition to all the experts and pundits and talking heads out there.

André Dua: That is a great segue to where I’d like to take the conversation. Speaking of how regular Americans feel, let’s start by talking a little bit about the work that we at McKinsey do together with Ipsos on the American Opportunities Survey, which is a survey of 25,000 Americans in which we explore their attitudes toward economic opportunity and inclusion, their economic well-being, and some of the key barriers they face in the workforce.

I think this is an especially important topic right now with so much conversation around the potential for recession, the impact of inflation, employment opportunities, and more. So let me start, Mallory, by asking, how do you think Americans feel about their economic opportunity right now?

Mallory Newall: That is a really important question for this moment. One of the key findings of this most recent survey, in a word, was pessimism about accelerating inflation, about rising gas prices. And at the time that we fielded this survey, the conflict in Ukraine was really ramping up. Tying that all together, this survey touches on this overarching concept of the “American dream” and if it is attainable for people. And what we’re seeing now, more so than last year, is that, for many, access to opportunity is out of reach.

Spending more on less

André Dua: What do you think is driving that feeling that the dream is perhaps slipping away?

Mallory Newall: I think for many people it really is about inflation, kind of setting aside sort of the official numbers about unemployment. Unemployment is relatively low right now. There’s a lot of hiring going on. People are really focused on the pocketbook, or the “kitchen table” issues. I think that’s what’s really driving it. They’re having to spend more on essentials. There’s sort of less to go around. This is all really starting to weigh on people. And more people than last year believe that the country as a whole is doing a poor job of providing opportunities for people, I think, because of those pain points that they’re feeling from an economic perspective.

People are really focused on the pocketbook, or the ‘kitchen table’ issues. They’re having to spend more on essentials. There’s sort of less to go around. This is really starting to weigh on people. Mallory Newall

Chris Jackson: There is also a little bit of a self-fulfilling prophecy in some of these things, where people hear negative economic news, negative economic information, and that feeds into their outlook. We have seen a lot of places where people’s view of the economy is driven by noneconomic factors.

One of the factors that’s been given a lot of coverage recently is politics, where your political persuasion—who’s in power in Washington—has a huge impact, even if your actual pocketbook, your job, everything else are the same. Those changes have a huge impact on how people view the economy. So, there’s a little bit of column A and a little bit of column B driving it.

André Dua: Let us talk a little bit more about inflation because it does seem the topic of the moment. How do you think inflation is weighing on Americans right now?

Mallory Newall: One thing that I think this research illustrates is that there’s actually a lot of common ground in this diminished optimism. When you compare these findings to where people were at last year, it’s sort of across the board that the mood has just dampened a little bit. Some people are feeling it more acutely. We see that women and trans or nonbinary people are feeling this more than men, as are people who live outside of urban areas and people without a college education.

One thing that really stands out is that when we’re in a period of people having to spend more on the essentials—if you’ve got less money to go around to begin with or if you’re sort of up against a greater struggle to begin with—then this is sort of a compounding factor and even more strain. Like Chris said, I think there’s a lot of external factors at play here, but it’s really about money coming in versus money going out.

Tale of two economies

André Dua: Chris, you said something that I’ve been thinking about, which is that there are a range of economic factors which still look pretty good. Americans’ savings are at their highest point, unemployment is near historic lows, wage growth is pretty substantial, more so for people in lower-income categories. In some of those categories it’s outstripping inflation. And yet, overall sentiment is down. Mallory, you began to talk a little bit about difference in sentiment across demographic groups and you mentioned, in particular, women and transgender people. Can you talk a little bit more about some of the differences you’re seeing in demographic groups?

Mallory Newall: Absolutely. You all coined it really well in the report: this is a tale of two economies. Despite the positive things that are happening for some people, they’re just not seeing it. They’re not feeling it. And when you look across demographic groups, what we’re seeing is that the outlook overall has gotten a little bit more negative compared to last year.

Folks who are really driving it are the middle generations—older millennials, Gen Xers—more so than younger people. You touched on gender also: the diminished optimism is really felt particularly, I think, by women. That goes for both White women and women of color but also people who live in rural areas. That’s one area where we’ve really seen, compared to our previous survey results, a pretty significant decline in their optimism about the future of America and opportunity for them.

Chris Jackson: Rural residents are hit hard in a number of ways, but principally by gas prices. If you live in a rural area where you have to put a lot of miles behind you to get anywhere, high gas prices have more of an outsize impact than they do if you live in a city and can walk to accomplish a lot of what you need to do in your day-to-day life. So, in addition to not having a lot of opportunities in rural areas, high gas prices double down on some of the pain they’re feeling.

André Dua: Chris, what are the factors that are really contributing to Americans’ outlook? There always seems to be a few things which maybe occupy an outsize role in setting of sentiment, and historically for Americans that’s been gas prices. There has been significant public discussion about gas prices around July 4th. So, what do you both see are the contributing factors that are influencing Americans’ view that the “dream” is perhaps slipping away or that there’s less economic opportunity for them and their fellow Americans?

Chris Jackson: That’s a great question and it has a multipart answer. Gas prices always have a huge impact on people’s outlook on the economy. I think it’s outsize beyond the actual impact on their budget. Your typical household spends about $100 a month on gasoline versus $1,500 on rent and several hundred on food. I think with gas prices, because you see those numbers when you fill up your car every week or every couple of days, you see how much it costs. You see those numbers ticking up. The changes are real in a way that other changes are not. Your rent maybe goes up or down every six months or every year, your mortgage even less frequently. That may have a bigger impact but is less in your face. Our survey found that food and gas were the two things that were really driving people’s increased spending. All the data suggests these are the two factors that have been driving the inflationary pressures for Americans.

The other question about the American dream is a bigger and a more complicated one. We have data that Ipsos has done going back over the last decades showing that Americans are relatively pessimistic about the ability to achieve the American dream even before the pandemic and this current inflationary period. So, I think that sort of speaks to a larger challenge we’re facing as a society regarding giving people those opportunities to accomplish a dream or live up to the American dream.

André Dua: Mallory, is there anything you would add to that?

Mallory Newall: There’s other things at play that Chris started to allude to, which is that we are living in a society right now that is highly polarized. That’s not necessarily a new finding, right? That’s not something that happened overnight. It is a highly polarized society, where people are becoming more and more entrenched on either side of the political aisle or sort of in their own affinity or identity groups. And we’re coming out of two and a half years of a pandemic and of increased social isolation, where you are not able to make connections with other people around you.

When you take these feelings of isolation and polarization and then compound that with paying more at the gas pump, paying more for groceries, it’s some of those pain points that are really visible for people when they’re already sort of feeling like the world is a tough place to begin with, they kind of become compounding factors.

Mental-health matters

André Dua: Since you’ve seen this play out because of your research over a number of years, I’m curious if there’s anything in the most recent findings from the Opportunity Survey that surprised you, or what was most surprising?

Chris Jackson: I am always struck by the disconnect between how people talk about their actual, personal conditions in any given moment in time and their broader outlook. Most people report that they’re feeling pretty OK about their lives, their positions, their livelihoods, their opportunity. Even while they say that the country or the world is going down the tubes—and it’s not new, this is something that’s been happening for a while—there is this constantly fascinating mismatch between people who are pretty happy with what’s going on in their personal lives and just deeply, deeply unhappy with the direction of the world.

Mallory Newall: One thing for me that is particularly striking, and maybe it’s just because it hits close to home, are some of the questions around mental health. In our survey we see that nearly three in five respondents who have kids in the house—children under 18 at home—say that their mental health affected their ability to perform their work effectively.

There’s so much conversation happening right now, both in the survey and just in the public writ large, about the economy and about inflation and about this level of pessimism. I think it’s important to remember that it wasn’t too long ago that it was COVID-19 that was the big elephant in the room and that single issue that Americans were focused on. I think we are seeing the lingering effects here, both in terms of how mental health might be a little diminished but also, if you want to put a more positive spin on it, maybe how we’re talking about it more now and how our mental health affects how we show up at work and how we show up in our daily lives.

André Dua: That was really shocking to me, the breadth of the sentiment around mental-health issues. It really made me feel like we’re truly in the middle of a mental-health crisis in America, which is impacting people’s ability to perform at work as well.

Something worth noting is that we surveyed 25,000 Americans this year. One thing that people have been talking about is the ability of people who do polling to create representative samples. This obviously plays more on the political side, where it’s been harder to accurately predict people’s voting sentiment. Can you talk a little bit about what Ipsos does, and did do with this survey, to ensure a diverse sample that provides a representative cross-section of America?

Mallory Newall: That “political horse race” polling is just one facet of what we do as researchers. One of the reasons why I love surveys like this so much is that it’s a deep dive into the issues at hand for the American public and what’s important to them outside of the political sphere.

Since 25,000 is a significant number of interviews, we make sure that we put quotas in place on census data—gender, age, region, race, and ethnicity—to make sure that we get a really good cross-section of the American public and that this survey looks like how the country looks. We also did some oversampling or boost interviews in major metro areas around the US, which allows us to not only look at Americans as a whole but also to look at people in different areas, in different cities, across the country to provide a really rich picture of what Americans look like and of what people in different areas of the country are really feeling right now.

Chris Jackson: It allowed us to, for instance, talk about the country as a whole but then also look at how opportunity may be different for people living in the Washington, DC, metro area where Mallory and I are versus the Miami metro area where you are, because there are so many local conditions that drive these things. And this big survey with these big samples in cities helped us do that.

Future trends

André Dua: Chris, in addition to the American Opportunities Survey, Ipsos also surveys Americans in its monthly What Worries the World Survey, which is done twice a year across more than 25 countries. I think those surveys also find that Americans’ optimism has significantly declined and just 15 % of Americans say they have more economic opportunities now than 12 months ago. What more are you seeing in these surveys? And how do the views of Americans differ, if at all, from those citizens elsewhere around the world where you’re conducting surveys?

Chris Jackson: Of the many pieces of research we do, one is this monthly global adviser survey that we do in 26, 27 countries around the world, of which every six months a wave is dedicated to the What Worries the World Survey that we’ve been running for about a decade now, where we ask people what their main issues are, what their main concerns are.

And we found, like you just talked about, that Americans are certainly on the downturn with their views of the world, their pessimism. We are not unique in that regard. We’re seeing that same phenomenon playing out pretty much everywhere around the world, particularly in Europe, in the industrialised democracies that are closest to us in terms of the position on the economic cycle.

So, while the United States is oftentimes unique in its outlook and its behavior, in this regard we’re actually feeling some of the same pains as everyone else, including our friends in Europe, even our friends in Asia and Africa.

André Dua: Looking forward, what do you both think, reflecting on this survey, are some of the issues to watch?

Chris Jackson: There’s so much change right now that there’s a lot of trends to watch out for. One of the things that this survey highlights is how and where we work. There’s this huge appetite in the American public, the American workforce, for things like remote work or hybrid work or the ability to have a little bit more control about where they spend their day, and I think it’s not necessarily going to go away now that the pandemic’s kind of becoming the new normal. We just don’t know exactly where normal is going to settle down.

While the United States is oftentimes unique in its outlook and its behavior, in this regard we’re actually feeling some of the same pains as everyone else, including our friends in Europe, even our friends in Asia and Africa.

 

Mallory Newall: We are in this really transformational period, I think. Employers that want to retain their employees are forced to look at things from a more holistic lens, right? We talked a lot about mental health in the workplace and the bigger conversation about the impact of your mental health on your daily life. I think it feeds into here too, per Chris’s point, how we work and where we work but also what the workplace looks like. And the tangibles—good pay, hours, etcetera—those are certainly important. Those aren’t going anywhere. Some of the more intangibles—such as how workers are feeling, the soft benefits of flexibility on where you work and when you work—those are critical too.

There is this sort of shift of power balance, I think, between employers and employees right now. Because there are so many companies that are hiring and employees are looking to make a move that best suits them, you really need to focus on some of those intangibles beyond money to attract and retain employees.

Work shifts

André Dua: I am glad you brought up this topic of remote work. I was really struck by the extent to which this seems to be becoming a feature of the economy. It was remarkable to me that 58 percent of the people we surveyed—which if you extrapolate means 92 million Americans—report having the option to work from home full time or at least part time.

That’s really significant. And of those people, if you take them in aggregate, they’re working on average about three days a week from home. So that’s a really significant change. As it relates to remote work, are there any differences you saw among different groups or types of workers that you think are noteworthy?

Chris Jackson: One of the interesting things from this data is that everyone’s interested in remote work, and it doesn’t really matter sort of the type of work they do. People are interested in it. Some of that relates back to some of the issues we talked about earlier, things like inflation and gas prices.

Working from home’s a great way to avoid paying more in gas, right? There are some interesting patterns in who’s more interested or taking advantage of remote work more: people working knowledge-economy jobs, people who live in cities, and men right now are slightly more likely than women to be taking advantage of some of these things.

I think some of that’s about who has the opportunity. If you’re doing a service job where you have to be in person to do that service, or construction, things like that, there are limits in how remote that work can be. It is something that everyone is kind of interested in right now.

André Dua: I was struck by this difference: more women than men would like remote work, but more men than women have the opportunity to work remotely. Another very interesting thing, Mallory, is what you alluded to, which is how high up on the list of criteria for jobs or job changes remote work has become. Maybe you could say a little bit more about that.

Mallory Newall: Absolutely. Our survey really clearly shows that job seekers truly value this autonomy over not only where they work but when they work. The most common rationale for a job hunt was a desire for greater pay or more hours and then a search for better opportunities.

The third most popular reason was looking for a flexible work arrangement. That’s working from home or the ability to bring a child to work with you. And there you see that reverse gender gap, where women are actually a little bit more likely than men to report a flexible working arrangement as a reason to seek a new job.

Downturn concerns

André Dua: Interesting. I’d like to pivot to what a lot of people are either thinking or worrying about now, which is the potential for a coming recession or a downturn. I’m curious to get your perspective. Chris, you alluded before that perception can create its own reality. I’d like to maybe build on that but also talk a little bit about the potential features of this downturn and how it differs from our last significant downturn, which was the financial crisis in 2008 and 2009.

Chris Jackson: The American economy’s a weird creature. People think of it as this big thing that includes train yards and factories and everything else. The biggest piece of the American economy is consumer spending, which means it’s susceptible to sort of what’s happening in consumer’s minds. If they decide they don’t want to spend anymore, all of a sudden we see an economic downturn. There definitely is almost a psychological aspect of what’s going on with the economy. This year is a little bit different than our last major economic downturn, the Great Recession that came after the fallout with the housing market.

In that period people were very, very concerned about jobs and employment. That was what people’s focus was on. Unemployment did go up significantly. I think it peaked around 10 percent at the worst point in the Great Recession. And inflation was never an issue. There’s cost of living, of course, if you didn’t have a job, but for everyone else that was not a big concern. That’s a bit flipped now, where people are not really worried about their jobs or their job security, but they’re much more concerned about their ability to afford their household goods, pay their basic living expenses, because it’s this different period.

What that suggests is that in the Great Recession there was a smaller group of people that were impacted much more strongly, people who lost their jobs, and then all of the people who lost money in the market from the crash. This time the pain is being felt much more widely because everyone’s paying for increased prices, even as no single group—maybe excluding cryptocurrency—is feeling extra-strong personal damage due to the market.

André Dua: The last thing I wanted to ask you was based on all the research that you’ve conducted and all the work you’re doing, what are the important issues that we’re not talking about in the public arena enough, but that Americans are deeply concerned about?

Mallory Newall: I think it is being talked about but one thing that continues to percolate is crime and safety, how safe you feel in your community, and a sense of security around that. So, it goes beyond economic security. And going back to my comments earlier about how polarized we can be as a society, people are approaching the issue of public safety a little bit from a different lens. It is something, of course, with increased gun violence and mass shootings as of late, that I think remains top of mind. As we get closer to November, I’m just going to be watching—we know that the economy and inflation is the issue of the day right now.

Will that trend hold, or will there be other issues, like safety, like healthcare or abortion that creep into the public consciousness? Is that enough to make a difference? Or is it going to be something similar to what we saw in 2020, where it was really a single issue that defined the moment? Then it was COVID. Now is it going to be the economy?

Chris Jackson: I think inflation definitely is the big thing. It’s the dominant issue in just about every survey we do right now. The question is if inflation comes down what fills that space. I think there are a lot of potential issues out there. Climate change and sustainability are definitely things that we’ve seen increasing in importance every year, and they’re still second-tier issues for the American public. They’re not dominant like inflation or healthcare or the pandemic was two years ago.

Ever so slowly, much like the global temperature, it’s going up as a major issue. Crime and public safety: huge concern. That’s more of a perennial thing. People have always been concerned about crime and public safety.

I also think one of the other issues that is increasingly dominant in the American psyche is partisanship, political division, social division. People feel like the country is very divided right now. I think that’s feeding into some of the problems you’re seeing in the economic climate; people are reading that angst from the political division into their views of the economy, which I think makes those views a little bit more pessimistic.

André Dua: Perhaps let me add one, and I’m going to put them under the broad category of health-related issues. I think what’s coming through in this survey of 25,000 Americans is—as Mallory said—the extent to which mental health has reached really significant proportions.

Related to that, the survey also says a lot about the number of people who feel their physical health is impacting their ability to work to their full potential. It’s also very clear that childcare remains a significant barrier, particularly to women’s participation in the workforce.

Last, the survey reminds us that the number one issue that Americans say is a barrier to their economic opportunity is access to healthcare and health insurance. So even though that’s been part of the policy dialogue for 20 or 30 years, Americans are telling us this is still the biggest barrier to personally accessing economic opportunity.

Chris Jackson: That is a fantastic point. There’s definitely this achieving-the-American-dream thing. People feel it’s harder to obtain. And that’s a big piece of the barrier people see, is that risk of some catastrophic healthcare expense.

Considering a sustainable and inclusive future

André Dua: We are going to wrap up our Future of America episode as we always do with some rapid-fire Q&A. Mallory, I’m going to ask you just a couple questions first. Is there a book or article that you’ve recently read that excites you as we think about how to create a more sustainable and inclusive future for Americans?

Mallory Newall: That is an interesting question. Perhaps excite isn’t the right word, but one thing that I’ve really been fascinated by recently is the impact of climate change specifically on migration patterns in the US. I am a native Michigander and I read something recently about the Great Lakes region or the upper Midwest becoming a potential destination for “cli-migrants”—in one of the articles that I read, that is the word they used—people who are moving from the Deep South or from the West, areas that are prone to droughts, moving to areas in Michigan and Ohio. I think that’s a bigger trend that really interests me: How is climate change going to actually shift demographic and regional patterns and population patterns in this country, both in the near and far term?

André Dua: Mallory, one last question for you. What makes you optimistic that we can achieve a more sustainable and inclusive future for Americans?

Mallory Newall: I love it, ending on a positive note. I’m going to hearken back to my comments on mental health. I feel the same about sustainability: I feel that we are in a time where people are just talking about it more. The dialogue is happening.

Particularly when you look at younger generations, Gen Z, younger millennials, sustainability and climate change are certainly a focus for them. That gives me hope, that it’s becoming part of the consciousness and that younger folks are looking to carry that torch to hopefully save our world from catastrophe.

André Dua: Chris, is there a book or article that you’ve recently read that you’ve found interesting in terms of this broader topic of creating a more sustainable and inclusive future?

Chris Jackson: As a public pollster, I’m supposed to have at least some awareness of everything at any given point in time, so I read a lot. A book that I read recently that I found really interesting and positive was Bill Gates’ recent book on avoiding a climate catastrophe. It had some very real talk about what’s going on broadly with climate change but some very real steps that can be taken that are achievable to prevent the worst of it. I thought that was a good book that had some good, useful, not totally dire forecasts of the world.

André Dua: Thanks. My last question is, what makes you optimistic that we can achieve a more sustainable and inclusive future?

Chris Jackson: Again, I’m a public pollster. I spend my day asking questions of the American public. The stuff that tends to get the most attention is the inflammatory stuff. It’s the things where somebody believes something crazy. There’s some huge difference between groups. The truth is in question after question after question we ask, particularly when you take out some of the more charged language, some of the buzzwords, some of the political labels, you see most Americans are on the same page about a whole host of issues.

There’s so much commonality in the society that gets lost because it’s not as sexy for the conversation. It does give me a lot of hope that there is a fundamental basis of commonality we have as Americans that we can build on and make a better future.

André Dua: Thank you, Chris and Mallory. That was Chris Jackson, senior vice president for Ipsos, and Mallory Newall, vice president for Ipsos. I’m André Dua. You’ve been listening to McKinsey’s Future of America podcast series. Thanks for joining us.

www.mckinsey.com

Off Brand: The Ultimate Yuppie Status Symbol, a Diamond Tennis Bracelet, Goes Mass

From the country club to the hype house: inside the flashy and suddenly affordable revival of the diamond tennis bracelet.

By guest author Rory Satran from the Wall Street Journal Magazine.

Since the gimme-gimme 1980s, the diamond tennis bracelet has been a potent status symbol. Traditionally an elaborate gift given to women for milestone events, the simple line bracelet of diamonds is slid discreetly across a restaurant table in a long velvet box. Or not so discreetly: The history of rap music sparkles with braggadocious tennis-bracelet gifts. “My women-friends get tennis bracelets,” rapped Jay-Z on “Allure” in 2003. In 2015, The Game crowed, “Got my mom a tennis bracelet, Wimbledon of Wilmington.”

In 2022, the tennis bracelet is shining brighter than ever, but now it’s more accessible, more irreverent, and more often than not, something that both men and women are buying for themselves.

Once the territory of conventional jewellers both mass (Zales) and high-end (Cartier and Tiffany), tennis jewellery is being disrupted by retailers like Dorsey, the Last Line, Ring Concierge, Vrai, Mejuri, the Clear Cut and Brilliant Earth, with some offering Gen Z-friendly selling points such as transparent supply chains, coloured stones or personalization. By using less expensive lab-grown gemstones or smaller diamonds, many of these companies are able to offer pieces below USD 1000—a revolution for a category that typically zoomed up to USD 30000-USD 40000 for pieces of decent weight and clarity.

“It was traditionally worn by moms at country clubs,” said Meg Strachan, founder and CEO of Los Angeles brand Dorsey, which makes tennis jewellery such as a USD 340 bracelet made of lab-grown white sapphires. “Now you see it on almost everybody.”

That includes Justin and Hailey Bieber, who sport Dorsey pieces casually over T-shirts, as does their legion of young fans. Taylor Swift and Bella Hadid have also worn Dorsey jewelry. Ms. Strachan marvelled that those celebrities (none of whom are sponsored by the brand or have received gifts) chose her pieces over more expensive name brands. But the lab-grown gemstone industry is gaining traction among young people who want to avoid the checkered past of the mined-diamond industry. The celebrity co-sign has spurred interest in Dorsey, which was launched in 2019 and often has 1000-person waitlists for its USD 300-ish bracelets and USD 600-ish necklaces.

The tennis bracelet’s appearances in pop culture now veer more “treat yourself” than “be treated.” In 2020, Kash Doll’s “Ice Me Out,” became a popular TikTok dance, with people including dancer Charli D’Amelio and influencer Emma Chamberlain gyrating to the lyrics “I ain’t gotta get naked for no tennis bracelet.”

Then there’s the Tinx effect. Christina Najjar, the 31-year-old Los Angeles influencer known as “Tinx,” first bought herself a diamond tennis necklace from the Clear Cut for her 30th birthday. After signing an audio deal with Sirius XM, she bought herself a slightly bigger necklace as a “podcast push present,” and eventually a bracelet too. Now she’s something of a poster woman for the style, fielding questions about her pieces from her followers constantly. She said it’s a “flex” to wear diamonds with casual clothes, otherwise they look too “try-hard.”

“Right now everyone is taking these classic pieces and turning them on their head,” said Ms. Najjar. “I love that women are buying tennis bracelets for themselves and wearing them with jeans.”

That casual spirit is a return to form for the tennis bracelet, which was popularized in part by tennis champion Chris Evert, who often wore them to play in the 1970s and ’80s. Although diamond line bracelets had been around for several decades, when Ms. Evert dropped hers on the court during a U.S. Open match in 1978, it struck a chord in the public imagination. But it wasn’t until the ’80s that it came to be marketed by jewelers as a fancy, desirable gift called a “tennis bracelet.”

In 1987, Miss Manners, a.k.a. Judith Martin, ranted against the style in her syndicated column: “What is improper is the diamond bracelet worn for tennis, the car or house referred to as a ‘limousine’ or ‘mansion,’ the designer label—any inappropriate display of wealth…”

That perception of flashiness, along with tennis bracelets’ high prices, made the look a symbol of the 1%. Ms. Strachan of Dorsey said, “The diamond necklace and diamond bracelet are some of the most polarizing pieces of jewelry because everyone knows they are extremely expensive.” With all the new options today, that’s shifting, she said.

“I love a tennis bracelet and I could never afford one,” said Shelley Sanders, the founder of another Los Angeles brand, the Last Line. Ms. Sanders, along with her husband Teddy, founded her company in 2017 in part to create the kind of playful, affordable tennis bracelets she’d always dreamed of finding, especially in colored gems. The company offers pieces like a USD 1560 aquamarine tennis bracelet, and “mini tennis bracelets” with fewer stones for under USD 400.

The colorful pieces from the Last Line are perfect for “stacking,” the Instagram-stoked practice of accumulating bracelets in conspicuous armfuls. Next to string friendship bracelets and plastic watches, diamond tennis bracelets hit differently. Ms. Sanders said, “It’s a little punk when you mess around with a style that’s traditionally very snooty.”

For some, the tennis bracelet is more about a feeling than a certain number of carats. Moesha Smith, 25, a social worker in Houston, bought a cubic-zirconia tennis bracelet from Amazon for USD 17 after seeing over 1, ke to live the Black-girl luxury lifestyle.” She bought it to wear to brunch to get a feel for the style. Now, she said, “I definitely want to get a real one.”

Corrections & Amplifications
Christina Najjar bought a diamond tennis necklace from the Clear Cut for her 30th birthday. An earlier version of this article incorrectly said she bought it from Ring Concierge. (Corrected on Aug. 8)

www.wsj.com

www.dorsey.com

 

An appraisal: Why Steve Jobs Chose This Designer’s Turtlenecks 

The real beginning of the fashion-technology love affair and its legacy lies with Issey Miyake, who died last week.

By guest author Vanessa Friedman from the New York Times. Vanessa Friedman was named the fashion director and chief fashion critic in March 2014. In this role she leads global fashion coverage for both The New York Times and International New York Times.

Little wonder, really, that Issey Miyake was Steve Jobs’s favourite designer.

The man behind Mr. Jobs’s personal uniform of black mock turtlenecks, who died on Aug. 5 at age 84, was a pioneer in all sorts of ways — the first foreign designer to show at Paris Fashion Week (in April 1974), among the first designers to collaborate with artists and a proponent of “comfort dressing” long before the term ever existed. But it was his understanding and appreciation of technology and how it could be harnessed to an aesthetic point of view to create new, seductive utilities that set Mr. Miyake apart.

Before there were wearables, before there were connected jackets, before there were 3-D-printed sneakers and laser-cut lace, there was Mr. Miyake, pushing the boundaries of material innovation to bridge past and future. He was the original champion of fashion tech.

It began in 1988 with Mr. Miyake’s research into the heat press, and how it could be used to create garments that started as fabric two or three times larger than normal, which was then pressed between two sheets of paper and fed into an industrial machine that shaped it into knife-edge pleats, which in turn became garments that never wrinkled, fell flat or required any complicated fastenings. By 1994, those garments made up a line of their own known as Pleats Please (later spun into a men’s wear version, Homme Plissé): a re-engineering of the classic Grecian drapes of Mario Fortuny into something both practical and weirdly fun.

 

So it went: Next came an experiment involving a continuous piece of thread fed into an industrial knitting machine to create one piece of cloth with inbuilt seams that traced different garment shapes — which could in turn be cut out as desired by the wearer, thus eliminating manufacturing detritus. Known as A-POC (a piece of cloth), the collection was introduced in 1997, decades before “zero waste” became a clarion call of the responsible fashion movement.

And then there was 132 5, which Mr. Miyake debuted in 2010 (after he had stepped back from his day-to-day responsibilities but remained involved with his brand). Inspired by the work of computer scientist Jun Mitani, it comprised flat-pack items in complex origami folds that popped open to create three-dimensional pieces on the body. The collection was developed in conjunction with Mr. Miyake’s in-house research and development team, founded in 2007 and known as Reality Lab. (The name — not to be confused with Meta’s Reality Labs division, though arguably its forerunner — was later also used for a retail store in Tokyo.)

Pieces from all of these lines are now included in the collections of museums such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Museum of Modern Art, the Victoria & Albert Museum and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. They are extraordinary — soft sculptures that morph and move with the body — but what makes them singular is that they were conceived not just as beautiful things but as solutions to everyday needs (a Miyake basic value was the importance of “clothes for living”). And they functioned as such.

This is where the black turtleneck comes in. It was not by any means Mr. Miyake’s most interesting garment. It may even have been his most banal. But it embodies his founding principles and serves as the door through which anyone not particularly interested in fashion could walk to discover the Miyake universe. Mr. Jobs did just that.

Indeed, it is not incidental that Mr. Jobs’s own exposure to Mr. Miyake came through technology. Or so the late Apple founder, told Walter Isaacson, his biographer.

According to Mr. Isaacson’s book, “Steve Jobs,” Mr. Jobs was fascinated by the uniform jacket Mr. Miyake created for Sony workers in 1981. Made from ripstop nylon with no lapels, it included sleeves that could be unzipped to transform the jacket into a vest. Mr. Jobs liked it and what it stood for (corporate bonding) so much that he asked Mr. Miyake to make a similar style for Apple’s employees — though when he returned to Cupertino with the idea, he was “booed off the stage,” he told Mr. Isaacson.

Still, according to Mr. Isaacson’s book, the two men became friends, and Mr. Jobs would often visit Mr. Miyake, ultimately adopting a Miyake garment — the black mock turtleneck — as a key part of his own uniform. It was a garment that did away with an extraneous fold at the neck, that had the ease of a T-shirt and a sweatshirt but also the cool, minimal lines of a jacket.

Mr. Miyake made him “like a hundred of them,” Mr. Jobs, who wore them until his death in 2011, said in the book. (Mr. Isaacson wrote he saw them stacked in Mr. Jobs’s closet, and the book’s cover features a portrait of Mr. Jobs wearing, natch, a black mock turtleneck.)

Even more than his Levi’s 501s and New Balance shoes, the turtleneck became synonymous with Mr. Jobs’s particular blend of genius and his focus: the way he settled on a uniform to reduce the number of decisions he had to make in the mornings, the better to focus on his work. It was an approach to dress later adopted by adherents including Mark Zuckerberg and Barack Obama. Also his ability to blend soft-corner elegance and utility in not just his own style but the style of his products.

As Ryan Tate wrote in Gawker, the turtleneck “helped make him the world’s most recognizable C.E.O.” Troy Patterson of Bloomberg called it “the vestment of a secular monk.” It was so embedded in pop culture that Elizabeth Holmes of Theranos later adopted it when she was trying to convince the world of her own Jobs-like brilliance, even though Mr. Miyake’s brand retired the style in 2011, after Mr. Jobs’s death. (An updated version was reintroduced in 2017 as “The Semi-Dull T.”)

It didn’t matter. At that point, the whole ethos of the garment had been transformed. Before Mr. Jobs encountered Mr. Miyake, after all, the black turtleneck was largely the province of beatniks and Samuel Beckett, associated with clove cigarettes, downtown and poetry readings (also ninjas, cat burglars and anyone who wanted to blend into the night). Afterward, it meant paradigm shifts.

But it would not have without Mr. Miyake. Mr. Jobs was not the typical muse of fashion cliché. But even more than the architects and artists who have gravitated toward Miyake clothing, he has become the designer’s ambassador to history: a genuinely populist part of a legacy that helped shape not just the rarefied inner sanctum of design, but the essence of how we think about dress.

www.nytimes.com

 

 

News of August 15, 2022 for your convenience just click on the item to read.

Follow-up of important News during non-publishing time (Part 1)

https://textile-future.com/archives/93549

Follow-up of important News during non-publishing time (Part 2)

https://textile-future.com/archives/93632

Follow-up of important News during non-publishing time (Part 3)

https://textile-future.com/archives/93716

Follow-up of important News during non-publishing time (Part 4)

https://textile-future.com/archives/93761

Follow-up of important News during non-publishing time (Part 5)

https://textile-future.com/archives/93985

Follow-up of important News during non-publishing time (Part 6)

https://textile-future.com/archives/94114

 

Newsletter of the last Week before we stopped publication

How inflation is flipping the economic script, in seven charts https://textile-future.com/archives/93327

 

The highlights of that last week’s NEWS, for your convenience, just click on the feature to read.

 

Acquisition

Mergers: EU Commission clears acquisition of Prefere Resins by One Rock Capital Partners  https://textile-future.com/archives/93248

Elon Musk Seeks to Abandon USD 44 Billion Twitter Deal https://textile-future.com/archives/93299

Associations

AATCC 2022 Mid-Year Standards Supplement https://textile-future.com/archives/93304

Companies

Sainsbury’s shareholders reject living wage call despite cost-of-living crisis https://textile-future.com/archives/93216

TESSENDERLO GROUP AND PICANOL GROUP announce their intention to simplify Group Structure and combine their activities https://textile-future.com/archives/93220

M&S pay: 30 % of investors revolt against Steve Rowe’s bonus https://textile-future.com/archives/93272

BURBERRY introduces virtual handbag collection Roblox https://textile-future.com/archives/93412

Customer Care

The state of customer care in 2022 https://textile-future.com/archives/93345

Data

EU Trade in goods and services by end use: new data https://textile-future.com/archives/93251

The McKinsey Week in Charts https://textile-future.com/archives/93314

EU population continues to decrease for a second year https://textile-future.com/archives/93361

Looking for a local doctor? https://textile-future.com/archives/93385

Unemployment rate in the OECD stabilises at 5 % in May 2022 https://textile-future.com/archives/93472

Education

Professor Scott Galloway on why recruiters should stop ‘fetishising’ elite universities  https://textile-future.com/archives/93226

EU

EU Commission launches public consultation on the role of enablers in facilitating tax evasion and aggressive tax planning https://textile-future.com/archives/93245

Eurostat: EU Commission proposes new statistics on ecosystems to measure nature restoration https://textile-future.com/archives/93357

EU Innovation Fund: EU invests EUR 1.8 billion in clean tech projects https://textile-future.com/archives/93368

Hong Kong

Burberry closes prominent Hong Kong flagship https://textile-future.com/archives/93395

Inflation

Inflation in a wrap: all you need to know https://textile-future.com/archives/93450

Personalities

Disney appoints Finney EVP Content Curation https://textile-future.com/archives/93205

JD Sports hires ex-Morrisons chair Andy Higginson https://textile-future.com/archives/93209

Who is new Very Group CEO Lionel Desclée? https://textile-future.com/archives/93284

The European Commission appoints a new Head of Representation in Finland https://textile-future.com/archives/93441

Retail

Pre-Loved Island: does eBay’s reality show tie-up signal the demise of fast fashion? https://textile-future.com/archives/93278

Retail Gazette highlights some retail collaborations that you may never have seen coming, from eBay x Morley’s to Greggs x Primark… https://textile-future.com/archives/93289

Justmylook to open first physical store with interactive TikTok area https://textile-future.com/archives/93427

Gopuff cuts 10 % of global workforce and shuts 76 US warehouses https://textile-future.com/archives/93433

Scholarships

AATCC Announces Scholarship Winners https://textile-future.com/archives/93231

WTO

WTO DG Okonjo-Iweala: “The world expects us to keep delivering” https://textile-future.com/archives/93259

WTO: Germany commits EUR 150000 to boost safe food exports from developing countries https://textile-future.com/archives/93266