Over the next summer season, the lacemaker is continuing its collaboration with artists, this time featuring the Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos, who offers ornamental lace enhanced with embroidery.
Its collections are teeming with combinations of materials, to produce a fine-crafted soft lace…
Founded in 1840, Les Dentelles DARQUER, based in Calais, is one of the oldest and most famous lacemakers in France. True to its historical tradition, it showcases creativity and inventiveness. This is why in 2016, under the artistic direction of Stéphane Plassier, it introduced an “artists’ lace” collection inspired by contemporary works of art. Each invited artist develops a range over the course of two seasons and each creation enriches the options available to Darquer customers.
Make way for ripples with Joana Vasconcelos
For the 2019 Spring/Summer season, Darquer presents variations on embroidered lace signed by the Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos, whose work explores the theme of women and their place in the world: at times tender and loving homemakers, at times warriors…
On a repeating grid reminiscent of the ornamental fabrics of the ’30s, brown Van Dyke or black, and as a break from the usual designs, the artist positions elegant red cotton or metallic copper thread embroideries rippling with geometric patterns, creating a gentle movement effect.
Echoing these subtle embroideries composed of semicircles inside a square (to the eye, evocative of Portuguese azulejos ceramics), another design this time features red, swirling upstrokes and downstrokes
These ornamental patterns are signature features of the work of Joana Vasconcelos and her gigantic textiles she calls “Valkyries”. The next work in this series will be unveiled at the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, at a major exhibition to be held in June 2018.
Numerous works of lace selected by Joana Vasconcelos will form part of this exhibition, marking a further step by DARQUER into the world of contemporary art, which is so close to its heart!
Spring/Summer 2019: Spotlight on associations of materials
The new collection highlights subtle marriages of materials, to produce lacework that is extremely soft with a delicate finesse. Maison Darquer has opted for an exclusive mix of cotton and cashmere, ideal for spring outfits, summer evenings, and until the first signs of autumn. The collection features Chantilly lace designs, geometric patterns reminiscent of highly subtle crochet work.
The collection marks the return in force of denim and faded denim. Darquer presents indigo fashion lace with an unmistakably summer freshness, harking back to the eighties, in cotton or a cotton/ LYCRA® blend to hug the body… The floral patterns and interlacing retain a grand classic feel, true to the grand themes of Calais lace, with Chantilly designs as well as a fashion look, thanks to their deliciously Bohemian crumpled effect.
A look back at previous “artists’ lace” collections
Darquer introduced this contemporary-art-inspired collection with the artist Rose-Lynn Fisher for its 2017 spring/summer season.
Her photographs in the “Topography of Tears” series, a microscopic study of tears, recently exhibited at the Palais de Tokyo, Paris, gave birth to the creation of an extremely fine and delicate lace: “Tears and Lace”.
Rebecca Lamarche Vadel, the exhibition curator, notes that the tears series by Rose-Lynn Fisher “reveals the existence of a multitude of landscapes within ourselves… and tries to make visible, through images, the physical manifestations of the non- physical world and of the ineffable”.
Tears and lace are brought together by life’s most intimate occasions: birth, marriage, eroticism…
For Autumn/Winter 2017/2018, the design inspired by the Laughing Tear photo, realised as a debauchery of heavy Cornely embroideries, creates a majestic framework for the fine lace lined with Organdy veil – Tears & Lace – on which it is placed.
The second “artists’ lace”, created by Frédéric Rumigny for the 2018 spring/summer collection, is a figurative design of astonishing modernity. This new style, called “SPIDER”, is unique in hugging the body thanks to its very special weave. A highly realistic representation combined with a systematically repeating pattern, creates a kinetic effect that is very seventies and sexy. The macramé look of the thread developed by Darquer permits lace designs that are erotically transparent, yet still demure. For autumn/winter 2018/19, the artist is creating a new dewdrop-style version. An enhancement obtained by calendering gives “Wet Spider” a very avant-garde wet look.
Maison Darquer is presenting its collection at Première Vision in Paris (February 13-15, 2018), Booth No. 5J1