Traditional fabric, new production – JERSEY EVOLUTION
Warp Knitting technology is one of the most versatile technologies in textile production. A wide range of machine gauges, yarns, and possible patterns facilitates the production of countless different textiles with special properties.
Typical products from other textile manufacturing technologies can be used and combined with the technological advantages of warp knitted textiles – as demonstrated by the outcome of KARL MAYER’s latest textile product development. Perfectly timed for Interfiliére in January 2020, the innovation department has developed a collection of warp knitted jersey fabrics titled JERSEY EVOLUTION. The production equipment used is the high-performance warp knitting machine HKS 2-S. “With these innovative jersey warp knitted fabrics, we want to open new doors in the world of innerwear, or fabric worn close to the skin,” said Textile Technician Melanie Bergmann.
The particular benefits of these new fabrics include a soft, sleek feel that’s fine and smooth to touch, with high elasticity but resistance to permanent loss of shape, as well as smooth, free-cut edges. These characteristics are backed by specially chosen machine configurations and lapping technology: the very good recovery capacity of the bi-elastic fabric is created by implementing a two-needleoverlap.
Thanks to a special meshing of the elastane threads, firm and straight edges are created which have a very low or zero tendency to curl. The chosen lapping, together with a high machine gauge, ensure a smooth, fine surface and a flowing fall – or a look and feel customary to circular knit fabrics. But in comparison to circular knit, the manufacturing process of the highly elastic, warp knitted power jersey is substantially more productive.
A HKS 2-S boasts the same output as around 2.5 circular knitting machines. This high-performance warp knitting machine also offers advantages with regards to spare parts. The needle leads in warp knitting machines can last up to six times longer than those in circular knitting machines. Thanks to this long usage cycle, costs for a set are halved, which results in running costs being lowered considerably. JERSEY EVOLUTION garnered a lot of attention at Interfiliére with its impressive performance. “We had many conversations with representatives from international lingerie labels. There were also some knitwear manufacturers among them, who wanted to learn more about the technology and its possibilities,” explained Gabriela Schellner, Senior Manager of Textile Technology at KARL MAYER.