News Round-up Part II
Textiles and Clothing
Italian Fulgar launches extravagant new website
FULGAR presents its new website inspired by a revolutionary concept for the sector
The company, a hallmark of excellence in Made in Italy textiles and international leader in the production of innovative Nylon yarns, has revamped its site, introducing a new digital communications model.
Totally new-look graphics, a new method of use, enhanced navigability and special sections with exciting, original content – that’s the new website launched on July 18, 2016 by Fulgar, international leader in the production of nylon yarns. This important renewal once again confirms the brand’s positive attitude to innovation and its commitment to constant research, factors that have given the company its unique status in the textile industry. A forward-looking drive that is also expressed through its communications strategies.
The elegant corporate image, shot for Fulgar by the famous photographer Giovanni Gastel, is the new site’s theme. Intuitive, dynamic and user-friendly navigation provides users with easy access to all information on Fulgar’s innovative products and solutions. There is also a dedicated section focusing on some prestigious collaborations between Fulgar and textile-fashion brands.
“We designed the new site with the intention of offering an exciting experience that would help not only our direct clients but also finished brands and final retailers to identify the most suitable textile innovations and present our ingredients. An authentic online library of Fulgar yarns has been created”, says Alan Garosi, Marketing Manager Fulgar. “There are two new developments we’re particularly proud of in the context of rationalising content. On the one hand there’s the presentation of our products categorised on the basis of application and purpose, on the other a tabloid section that presents projects carried out with our partners. These embody the company’s approach to creating a system involving all the operators in our supply chain”.
The initiative Fulgar presents today looks to the future. The company is fully aware that nowadays it is vital not to neglect communications, which are a crucial element of the textile and fashion market. Speaking in a clear, immediate and contemporary language is a fundamental factor in creating the basis for the development of new ideas and solutions to offer to final consumers.
Swiss Schoeller Textiles presents its novelty fabrics
Metallic sheen effects on fabric faces and reverses, a concealed reflex print technology and functional, naturally-structured cotton-and-linen blends are among the highlights of the current Schoeller collections. Developed and produced in the Swiss mountains, innovation and ecology have always played a major role in Schoeller textiles
Metallic sheens in a great variety of shading are true eye-catchers in the Schoeller collection for summer 2018. The glamorous aluminized silver pigment coating shimmers with a blue sheen, for example on the ultra light, down-proof schoeller®-spirit-polyamide fabric. Ideally suited for luxe-performance wind and weather protection, on the other hand, is the subtly lustrous, light 3-layer raincoat quality with breathable c_change® climate membrane in dark silver, beige gold or indigo blue and colour-contrasting jersey reverse.
Silver Effects: The surface of the wet-look, compact yet flowing schoeller®-spirit lightweights is reminiscent of molten steel and features with an aluminium coating on the reverse. The soft cotton blend, which combines a naturally matt look with a fine silver-effect yarn, creates an exciting interplay of matt and shiny. In addition, the PFC-free ecorepel® technology provides natural water-repellence on the stone gray, beige or navy blue schoeller®-spirit.
Natural Fibres: A stark contrast to clean, smooth surfaces is created by the structured schoeller®-WB-400 natural versions with cotton and linen. The 3- layer fabrics in denim blue, sand or anthracite with soft, darkly-contrasting jersey backing and water-repelling ecorepel® technology are ideally suited to use in rain jackets. Superbly comfortable and pleasantly cool best describe the feel of the schoeller®-shape Cool Fabric. The bi- elastic cotton-polyamide-twill fabric with 3DRY® feel-good technology keeps the wearer dry on both the outside and inside and cuts a fine figure both on the golf course and in the city.
Reflective Prints: An ingenious highlight with a safety aspect is emerging on fabrics with aspecial reflective print. The concealed technology creates new and surprising looks, for example on an elegant, elastic herringbone wool blend. Even at twilight, a cyclist remains clearly visible, without having to forgo the comfort of elasticity and breathability.
How much of China’s Apparel Production can South Asia capture?
China now dominates the global apparel market – accounting for 41 % of the market, compared with 12 % for South Asia. But as wages in China continue to rise, its apparel production is expected to shift toward other developing countries, especially in Asia. How much of China’s apparel production can South Asia capture and therefore how much employment could be created? This is important because apparel is a labour intensive industry that historically employs relatively large numbers of female workers.
In the new report, Stiches to Riches?, the World Bank estimates that South Asia could create at least 1.5 million jobs, of which half a million would be for women. Moreover, that is a conservative estimate, given that we are assuming no changes in policies to foster growth in apparel and address existing impediments.
Demystifying our job calculations
So how did we arrive at this calculation on job creation? Let’s begin with a look at how apparel production decisions are made. The United States, the European Union (EU), and other developed countries buy the largest shares of globally traded apparel, and it is their retail firms that typically decide what kind of apparel consumers would want. The process begins with these firms presenting designs and orders (directly or indirectly) to producers in developing countries. Producers respond with production characteristics – including costs and non-cost factors (like production times, quality assurances, and, increasingly, worker conditions). On that basis, developed country buyers then decide on where to source the apparel.
As prices rise in China, these buyers are looking for other places from which to source apparel. The responsiveness of these buyers to prices in different countries is analysed by economists with the concept of elasticity, which is defined as the percentage change in quantity demanded for a given percentage change in price.
When comparing two or more countries, economists often refer to the cross-price elasticity, which is the percentage change of imports from, say, India, for a given percentage change in the prices of another country, such as China. If a buyer is choosing between two countries (that is, if two countries were competing against one another and are therefore considered relatively close substitutes for each other in the world market), then an increase in the price in, say, China, will increase the amount imported from the competing country.
In our report, we use detailed U.S. and EU apparel import data to estimate how much production may shift between China and seven leading developing Asian apparel producers: four in South Asia (Bangladesh, India, Sri Lanka, and Pakistan) and three in Southeast Asia (Cambodia, Indonesia, and Vietnam). The results suggest that under current policies, South Asian countries’ exports to these markets would increase by 13-25 % (depending on the country) (see table). However, the Southeast Asian benchmark countries would do even better, with a 37-51 % increase (depending on the country).
What will these changes mean for employment? That depends on how much employment will increase if exports go up. Using detailed data on firms and workers, we also estimate the change in employment that would occur if exports were to increase. We find that a 1 % increase in apparel output (which is used as a proxy for exports) is associated with a 0.3–0.4 % increase in employment (for both men and women) in Bangladesh, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka (with India’s values a bit lower).
A big boost for job creation
The final step is to combine the export and employment elasticities to generate estimates of how much employment might increase under current policies as Chinese apparel prices rise by, for example, 10 %. We find that:
In India, employment might increase by nearly 1.2 million people, based on current apparel employment of about 35 million people. Since many, if not most, of these are jobs would be for women, a rise in Chinese prices alone could directly contribute to India’s development – as would be the case in the other South Asian countries.
In Pakistan, employment might increase by nearly 220000, based on current apparel employment of about 2.5 million people.
In Bangladesh, employment might increase by about 131000 people – about the same as the total apparel employment in the United States – based on current apparel employment of about 3.1 million people.
In Sri Lanka, employment might increase by about 14500 people, based on current apparel employment of about 180000 people.
The bottom line is that these job totals – which together reach about 1.5 million people – could be even larger if South Asia takes steps to tackle inefficiencies that are undercutting its competitiveness. Key policy recommendations in Stiches to Riches? include: (i) easing barriers to the import of manmade fibres; (ii) facilitating market access, and (iii) encouraging foreign investment. These changes would also help other light manufacturers (like footwear and toys), thereby boosting South Asia’s development potential.
Is U.S. manufacturing really in decline?
Daniel Gross is executive editor of strategy+business and gives its views and answers on U.S. manufacturing state
Did you hear that U.S. manufacturing just had another big month? That output has risen about 20 percent in the past six years? That industrial capacity is actually expanding?
Probably not. At most times, and especially in election season, the talk surrounding U.S. manufacturing is one of relentless decline: a loss of jobs, the shutting down of factories, increased competition from foreign countries, a global war in which the U.S. seems to be on the losing end.
And of course, it’s true. At some level, manufacturing has declined dramatically — as a direct employer of American workers. According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, 12.3 million Americans had payroll jobs in manufacturing in June. That’s down about 30,000 from June 2015, off nearly 1.9 million from June 2006, and down 4.9 million from 1996. In the past 20 years, in other words, America has shed 28 percent of its manufacturing jobs. In good times and bad, in recession and expansion, the manufacturing sector employs fewer people. It’s impossible to dismiss or talk around this trend.
But the decline of employment isn’t the whole story. Not by a long shot. In fact, in many significant ways, U.S. manufacturing is thriving. The point of manufacturing is to make stuff that people and companies will buy and use, not to employ people to make stuff. And by the former measure, U.S. manufacturing is actually doing quite well. (Note: Rex Nutting at Marketwatch made this point back in March.)
Take a look at this long-term chart of industrial production, courtesy of the U.S. Federal Reserve. Over the past 100 years, the index, which measures the value of the output of the manufacturing, mining, and utilities industries, has risen steadily. But the rise has generally continued in the last several decades — decades in which the narrative was that manufacturing has been in apparent decline.
What accounts for this disconnect between the rising dollar value of manufactured goods and falling employment? A few things. First, the production of less-expensive goods, like T-shirts, toys, and the like, has long since gone offshore. As a result, manufacturing in the U.S. is disproportionately a high-end activity: heavy machinery, tools, cars. I visited a General Electric plant in South Carolina a few years ago that made gas turbines for power plants — at US$90 million apiece. Boeing makes large airplanes in this country, which can cost about $200 million each. America may not make as many objects as it did 30 years ago, but the average value of an object made in the U.S. has risen sharply.
Second, there’s productivity. Manufacturing, from the outset, has been a pioneer in labour-saving technology. A century ago, Frederick Winslow Taylor walked around factories with stopwatches to time workers and suggest improvements. Henry Ford spend untold hours devising a hyper-efficient assembly line. Then came total quality management, Six Sigma, lean manufacturing, and all the other trends and practices. The overriding imperative driving these efforts has always been to figure out how to produce more (and faster) with fewer resources — raw materials, energy, effort, and, yes, labour.
The result is that factories today can actually be slightly eerie places, especially to someone accustomed to working in a densely populated newsroom or trading floor. Over the past several years, I’ve visited a range of factories: a steel fabrication plant in New York, a window manufacturer in Florida, car factories in Ohio, a frozen-French fry plant in North Dakota, a jet-engine plant in North Carolina, a producer of plastic coffee pods in Virginia, a jar manufacturer in Indiana, and a fishing-line producer in South Carolina. The common denominator in each: There just aren’t that many people in them. There are lots of whirring gizmos, belts that move goods through the stages of production, and machines that package and stack the finished products on pallets. But the people on the floor are mostly involved in tending to raw materials, quality control, maintenance, and oversight.
There’s a third point that is overlooked when we focus only on direct factory employment as a measure of manufacturing’s strength. Manufacturing has, to a large degree, unintegrated. That is to say, the activity you see on the factory floor is the culmination of all sorts of other activity that happened elsewhere. A rule of thumb in the gas-turbine or jet-engine business, for example, holds that for every job in the factory, there are eight in the supply chain.
And those aren’t just jobs at the manufactures of the components that are assembled in the factory. In fact, there are a lot of service jobs involved with manufacturing, many of which are done by people who don’t work directly at manufacturers. All the materials have to be moved — on trucks, trains, and planes. Marketing and sales professionals help goods find buyers. Factories wouldn’t be able to run without security, maintenance, landscaping, and food service.
Put another way, manufacturing may not simply be more robust than is commonly understood; it may support more employment than many people think.
Of course, it’s natural to discuss direct employment when determining the state of manufacturing in a given country. There’s an important human story behind every job that has been lost in manufacturing over the years. But when we’re trying to grasp the implications of complex economic phenomena and technological change, one data point doesn’t always tell the entire story.
In an often-overlooked phenomenon, quarter after quarter, year after year, companies have invested in and applied technology to the manufacturing process. Recent advances in computer technology have transformed efficiency efforts from an analogue undertaking to a digital one.
Retail Footwear sales outpace Apparel
Although weak consumer spending patterns have raised concerns about the health of the U.S. retail sector — with major department stores such as Macy’s, Gap, and Kohl’s reporting a drop in sales — the footwear category is considered to be a bright spot within the apparel industry. These findings are featured in a blog post published by MarketResearch
Overall, footwear sales have outpaced apparel in recent years, with a compound annual growth rate of 6 % over 2010-2015 in comparison to 4 % for apparel. By the end of 2019, the global footwear market is forecast to reach USD 216 billion.
To capitalize on consumer demand, apparel brands are increasingly looking to footwear to boost their bottom line.
MarketResearch.com’s blog post highlights several key trends that are influencing the footwear market, including:
– Fashion and celebrity endorsements
– Rise of athleisure and comfort shoes
– Online and direct sales
Fashion plays a key role in consumer decision-making when it comes to purchasing new shoes. According to a TechNavio report, “The population in the age group between 14 years to 30 years is relatively more fashion conscious and contributes considerably to the replacement purchase of footwear.”
Read the blog to learn more about this and other trends: http://hubs.ly/H03PctT0
For more in-depth information on the footwear industry, check out the market research reports cited in this blog:
– Comfort Conquers the Global Footwear Market,
– Global Footwear Market 2015-2019,
– Online Shoe Sales in the US – Industry Market Research Report,
These commercially available reports can be personalised to customer’s needs and TextileFuture readers are allowed a 20 % discount by mentioning our publication and code CH202.
MarketResearch.com is the leading provider of global market intelligence products and services. With research reports from more than 720 top consulting and advisory firms, MarketResearch.com offers instant online access to the world’s most extensive database of expert insights on global industries, companies, products, and trends. Moreover, MarketResearch.com’s Research Specialists have in-depth knowledge of the publishers and the various types of reports in their respective industries and are ready to provide research assistance.
Nonwovens and Technical Textiles
The Feminine Wipes Market report
Market expected to grow nearly 4 % through 2020
According to the latest market study released by Technavio, the global feminine wipes market is expected to grow at a CAGR of close to 4 % during the forecast period.
This research report titled ‘Global Feminine Wipes Market 2016-2020’ provides an in-depth analysis of the market in terms of revenue and emerging market trends. This market research report also includes up to date analysis and forecasts for various market segments and all geographical regions.
Based on distribution channels, the report categorizes the global feminine wipes market into the following segments:
• Supermarkets and hypermarkets
• Retail stores
• Health and beauty stores
• Online stores
In 2015, the sales of feminine wipes through supermarkets and hypermarkets accounted for a considerable market share of 22.75% due to the availability of product variants of feminine wipes in supermarkets. The variety in price points, private labels, product launches, broad product ranges, and discounts offered have increased the popularity of supermarkets.
According to Abhay Sinha, one of Technavio’s lead research analysts for health and wellness sector, “The sales of private label brands in supermarkets are comparatively higher than in other stores due to a wide variety of products at low prices. This provides opportunities for new manufacturers to promote their private brand of feminine wipes, which increases product visibility, driving the growth of the market.”
The global feminine wipes market through retail stores is expected to grow at a moderate rate during the forecast period. The sales through retail stores are largely dependent upon the popularity and variety of a particular brand. Products are offered in retail stores based on the degree of consumer acceptance, as they primarily keep stock of products that are highly demanded by consumers.
The retail sales of feminine wipes are dominated by mass brands such as P&G and Combe. Considerable variety in products results in high brand visibility, helping companies generate more revenue and increase their customer base. In 2015, over 20 million users in the U.K. used feminine wipes by P&G and Corman brand, followed by Organyc. By 2020, the customer base of P&G and Corman is expected to grow to over 25 million.
According to the report, the health and beauty stores segment was the second largest contributor in the market in 2015. The sales through this channel are expected to grow moderately during the forecast period due to the rise in awareness and availability of products in these stores. This growth can also be attributed to the rising number of stores worldwide, as well as an increase in product variety, which results in high sales.
“Health and beauty stores usually follow merchandising strategies such as bundled packaging and small packaging of personal care products including feminine wipes. This will help stores increase in-store sales, as consumers prefer smaller-sized products due to the convenience to try more products at less cost,” explains Abhay.
A wide assortment of feminine wipes sold through distributor websites and other online specialty stores helps vendors increase their product and brand visibility and improve product accessibility for consumers. The increase in internet penetration has unlocked a higher potential for growth in the global market. This is likely to impact the customer base positively as the majority of the consumers prefer online shopping.
The frequency of online searches has grown significantly in the past two years, creating greater business opportunities for the market. The ease of purchase and discretion further increase the demand from end-users. This will provide opportunities in areas buying feminine hygiene products from physical stores is considered taboo. Thus, online stores will be the key channel for the sales of feminine wipes in the future.
Meanwhile, the revenue of the global feminine wipes market from other stores is expected to decline by 2020 due to low availability and visibility of feminine hygiene products. Other distribution channels include convenience stores, discount stores, and warehouse chains. The availability of quality brands will become limited, and the inclination toward online shopping will increase, impacting the sales of smaller stores. However, steady demand is expected from the stores in developing countries due to ease of accessibility for consumers.
TENCEL® – enabling ‘circular economy’ in the textile world & next-generation ecological fibre
Lenzing is launching a new TENCEL® fibre made from cotton waste fabrics to drive ‘circular economy’ solutions in the textile industry. The new generation of lyocell fibres will be the most ecological wood-based fibre on the planet – combining cotton waste recycling with Lenzing’s pioneering closed-loop TENCEL® production on a commercial scale.
Lenzing is pushing new frontiers in ecological innovation and circular economy
Lenzing achieved another milestone in its innovation heritage in the textile industry by developing a TENCEL® fibre based on cotton fabric waste. Lenzing is the first manufacturer worldwide to offer such cellulose fibres incorporating recycled materials on a commercial scale.
TENCEL®, already a market success as an eco-friendly fibre, is now achieving another key milestone by creating from natural resources what is likely the most sustainable fibre. TENCEL® from cotton waste fabrics will further build Lenzing’s reputation as a leader in the field of environmental technology and will push new solutions in the textile industry towards circular economy by recycling waste. “For Lenzing, developing circular business models in the fashion industry ensures the decoupling of business growth from pressure on ecological resource consumption. It reduces the need to extract additional virgin resources from nature, and reduces the net impact on ecological resources,” says Robert van de Kerkhof, CCO of Lenzing.
TENCEL® the most ecological fibre from Mother Nature – now featuring circular economy TENCEL® has already been awarded the EU award for the most eco-friendly production process based on 99.7% closed loop circulation in the production and use of bio-energy. The renewable raw material of wood from sustainable forestry is another key advantage in terms of sustainability for TENCEL®. The latest next-generation TENCEL® fibre combines the best of two worlds – recycling cotton waste fabrics and using the most sustainable TENCEL® technology – to create one of the most ecological wood-based fibres on the planet. The recycling of cotton waste fabrics into virgin textile TENCEL® fibres offers a practical solution to enable circular economy in the apparel industry.
New approaches to marketing
The new TENCEL® fibre introduces an innovative approach to marketing. The fibre is not sold directly to yarn or fabric manufacturers. It will be exclusively offered to leading retailers and brands that in turn could produce their garment collections in the most sustainable way by engaging the right value chain partners. This ensures close co-operation and transparency in the entire textile value chain.
A new type of identification procedure is employed to guarantee transparency for the TENCEL® fibre. This allows Lenzing to assure retailers that the TENCEL® fibres in the garment are indeed the most eco-friendly wood-based fibres.
At the current time, the fibre is being tested with selected brand manufacturers and retailers and is at the point of being introduced to the market. “Close cooperation with the sustainability leaders in the retail business gives us the chance to find common solutions to overcome sustainability related challenges in the fashion industry and effectively implement circular economy concepts,” van de Kerkhof explains. “The next generation TENCEL® fibre is revolutionizing the fibre industry and has the potential to significantly change consumers’ behaviour,” van de Kerkhof continues.
ELIX Polymers launches ABS 3D printing R&D project in collaboration with AIMPLAS
A new “ABS 3D printing” R&D project initiated by specialty ABS producer ELIX Polymers aims to develop advanced versions of the terpolymer specifically for 3D printing using Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF), more commonly known as Fused Deposition Modelling (FDM). ELIX’s aim is to create materials that will produce parts with better mechanical properties such as resistance to impact, low warpage, dimensional precision and high resolution
To develop this new generation of polymer materials and their application in 3D printing, ELIX Polymers is working in collaboration with AIMPLAS Plastics Technology Centre, based in Valencia, Spain. The Spanish government-run Centre for the Development of Industrial Technology (CDTI) has confirmed that it will fund this R&D project.
3D printing, also known as additive manufacturing, allows manufacturers to produce three-dimensional objects in a variety of materials directly from a digital file. The materials used in 3D printing include various types of polymers, metals and ceramics, among others. The different additive manufacturing technologies, which include laser sintering and stereolithography as well as FFF/FDM, provide methodologies that make complex designs easier to manufacture.
The global 3D printing market in 2014 was worth an estimated EUR 2.8 billion and is expected to grow to up to EUR 8.7 billion in 2020. Analysts expect strong growth in various sectors, thanks to the numerous benefits offered by 3D printing, such as the speed with which an idea can be brought to reality, the reduction in manufacturing errors that can occur, the efficient use of materials, and more.
3D printing of parts using FDM technology is used for modelling, manufacturing prototypes, and small-scale production runs of functional parts. 3D printers using FDM technology work with thermoplastics in the form of a continuous filament, which they heat until it reaches a molten state. They then deposit the melt in layers to form the finished part.
FDM technology has a broad scope of application, including sectors such as automotive, aerospace, jewellery, architecture, biomedicine, consumer products, electrical/electronics, musical instruments, toys, and others.
ABS is one of the mo