Sustainable denim fabrics and shrinking explained by Hans Gerhard Wroblowski from Monforts
The author, Hans Gerhard Wrobowski is Monfort’s Area Sales Director South East Asia and Head of Denim Technology. He is highlighting shrinkage technology for denim fabrics
The textile industry consumes huge amounts of energy and resources in all the textile manufacturing stages
For example the shrinkage finishing process particularly requires large volumes of moist chemical apply and thermal energy – but a significant part of these resources is wasted.
Energy is lost via hot exhaust gases, effluent and hot waste air (cylinder dryer) in particular. The handling of thermal energy as well as raw materials in an efficient and sustainable way is therefore currently a hot topic in the textile industry.
Sustainability – Targets of textile machinery suppliers
• Save electrical energy, oil, gas, compressed air, chemicals
• Reduce specific energy demand
• Save valuable raw material
• Reduce life cycle cost
• Reduce emission load in atmosphere
Over the years A. Monforts Textilmaschinen has been concentrating its intensive R&D activities on developing energy-saving machine concepts and systems, focusing on efficient water and chemical apply units – so called ECO – Application units.
One of the most recent pioneering innovations to emerge is the development of the Eco Applicator with its controlled kiss roll (tangential application) technology.
This innovative system comprises a new application technique and a highly efficient adjustable moistening system that enables – in combination with the latest developed efficient Thermo-Stretch unit (skewing, stretching and drying) – thermal energy and resources to be utilised in a target manner.
Thermo stretch unit
An innovative combination of three processes (skewing / weft straightening, stretching and drying) within one:
• Stretching unit with more cloth content (softstretch) with width control
• Skewing/ straightening and stretching under warm and moist condition (soft skew)
• Skewing / stretching with up to 10 times less tension
• Pick counting and control before shrinking
• No crease marks during the stretching and skewing process
• Drying: automatic residual fabric moisture control before shrinkage
Eco Line system
The Eco Line system reduces energy losses and energy use, increases thermal transfer and keeps the drying energy on the textile material longer, i.e. so that it can be used very efficiently.
As a result energy savings of up to 50 % can be achieved.
Exhaust air energy can also be reduced to a minimum, which has a positive effect on the emission load in to the atmosphere.
The main advantages of Eco Line, respectively the Eco Applicator, is its potential to optimise the liquor applied, which is the result of using an individual use of two tangential application units in one.
A decisive factor for using this technique is a factor which represents a milestone in the ecologically sound use of chemicals whilst achieving the best minimized chemical or water application result.
The quality of the tangential process can also be optimised by applying a specific moistening film – Softener or product to increase dye fastness of the dyed denim.
The Monfortex Eco Line with his tangential Eco Applicator technology offers a real potential for reducing processing time and costs, thereby recouping the investment outlay of the innovative system very quickly.