Interlining Selection before Garment Dyeing
In case of garments dyeing, garments to be dyed alongside after garment manufacturing. As a result, interlining should be selected very carefully for the garments. Because, during garment dyeing, performance of interlining used in the apparel may be destroyed due to the effect of chemicals and temperature used in the dye bath. To avoid such kinds of problem, interlining should be selected by following some parameters of it which are discussed in this article by Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh. Properties of Interlining for Garment Dyeing:
Interlining for the garments to be dyed should have following properties:
– Interlining used in the garments should take-up equal amount of dye and chemicals as the garment fabric takes-up.
– Due to garments dyeing, bond strength between interlining and garment fabric should be undisturbed or unaffected.
– Handle properly of the interlining attached areas of the garment should be as per expectation.
– During garment dyeing, resin present in the interlining my pick-up dye molecules. Hence, colour depth problem should not arise in the interlining areas of the garment with the remaining areas of the garments.
In the readymade garment manufacturing industries, fusible interlining is mostly used for making the garments. The fusible interlining is composed of three types of materials. These are:
– Base fabric,
– Base fabric finishing,
– Resin coating.
During garment dyeing, the role of those three materials of fusible interlining have discussed in the below:
1. Base fabric:
For manufacturing the cotton garments, fusible interlining made from the cotton base fabric is always preferred. Because, during garment dyeing, garment fabrics as well as interlining base fabric, if both are made from cotton, then the dye pick-up will be equal. As a base fabric, cotton woven fabric is used as a base fabric for the interlining. Then, those non-woven base fabric should have the following properties:
If any resin is used as binder for the non-woven fabric production, should not create any problem to dye penetration.
Due to dyeing effect, non-woven base fabric should not change its original dimension during garment dyeing.
Due to garment dyeing, properties of non-woven base fabric should be unaffected.
2. Base fabric finishing:
If cotton fabric is used as base fabric for the manufacture of fusible interlining then normally the base fabric is finished with resin. Dimethylol urea derivative base resin is normally used for cotton base fabric finishing which creates problem during garments dyeing. If the base fabric is mechanically shrunken and low formaldehyde resin is used for base fabric finishing, then the problem of dye penetration will be reduced.
3. Fusible resin finishing:
Different types of resin coating are used for manufacturing the fusible interlining. After attaching the fusible interlining into the garments, if the garments are dyed then sometimes problem may arise into the fused areas of the apparel. During garments dyeing, due to the effect of dyeing temperature and chemicals used in the dye bath and longer period of agitation onto the garment, splitting of interlining fabric and apparel fabric may occur by breaking the bonding between those two fabrics.
The resin is used for the resin coating of the fusible interlining should be hydrophobic type and melting temperature of the resin should be more than 140°C to avoid such kinds of problem. Polyethylene and polyolefin types resin works well in garments dyeing.