An Italian textile and textile machinery region of excellence
TextileFuture would like to draw your attention to some novelties presented at ITMA. Since Italy was the host country, we start with “Discover PIEMONTE – ITALY Textile Machineries Companies” and under the motto “The Best of Made in Italy” to honour the host country
The region is the last full textile value chain in Italy, and thanks to various initiatives, many companies cooperate in R&D of specific products.
The sector of clothing and fashion (including lingerie, accessories, shoes, leather goods) is rather fragmented in Piedmont, but it stands out for the presence of a few major brands (Zegna, Miroglio Vestebene, Loro Piana, Robe di Kappa, Conbipel, Borsalino…) and a large number of smaller companies that have succeeded in entering profitable niche markets.
The tradition of wool production in Piedmont accounts for a good number of companies producing outer knitwear and underwear, with a predominance for winter clothing, above all in the areas around Biella, Novara and Torino. Cuneo and its surroundings can boast a hundred or so firms specialising in corsetry and lingerie, whereas swimwear and beachwear are mainly concentrated in the district of Oleggio, in the province of Novara. Clothing manufacturers are located throughout the whole region, although in a few areas they act primarily as outsourcers, especially in those surrounding large manufacturing plants (for example, around Cuneo). The shoe-making tradition, instead, is located around Alessandria, where a handful of companies mainly produce comfort footwear.
Piedmont has a large number of companies in the rag trade, but it also produces textiles for clothing and yarns. The research focuses on innovative production processes that allow greater efficiency and, above all, the possibility of introducing new cutting-edge products aimed at a broad range of applications: fabrics with protective qualities (fire protection, hospital use etc.) and for use in construction and leisure (driving garments, fancy yarns etc.).
From the past to the future
The ancient textile tradition of Biella is the result of its natural morphology. The first archaeological evidence dates to 500 BC while the oldest textile corporations date back after 1000 AD. In the 19th century, with the introduction of the first machinery, artisan production turned into an industry, and the first industrial complexes came to life. Initially, their position based upon the availability of hydraulic energy, but following the spread of new energy resources, large factories multiplied in the plain and Biella soon became one of the world’s most qualified centres of the wool textile industry,
Biella’s textile district of today is one of the largest international centres for the wool industry and the production of fabrics made from wool and other precious fibres (cashmere, alpaca, mohair): with an area of 930 square kilometres, Biella’s district counts over 2000 production plants, 28000 employees and exports around 30 % of the total turnover. As well as worsted and carded yarns used for weaving and knitwear, the district also specialises in cotton, polyester, acrylic and nylon. Alongside woollen mills and spinning mills, there are many combing, dyeing and finishing shops that round off this technologically advanced supply chain, focused also on protecting consumer health and the environment.
To this day, the Biella Handloom and power loom companies have continued to maintain the high quality of their production, extending it to total quality, involving technological research and creativity, and customer service. This commitment has enabled Biella to become a synonym for high technology of machinery and excellent product quality throughout the textile world. These features decidedly contributed to the confirmation of quality Italian products around the world.
Due to this productive specialisation in the textile sector, Biella has seen the start and development of many power loom companies. The specific cooperation with local bodies and institutions has always been very close, to the benefit of the overall system. Technological research, the use of IT services, advanced mechanical and electronic design tools, the use of sophisticated and robotised machine tools. All allow the creation of high quality, high yield products and guaranteeing reliability and durability. A qualified, organised service of consultancy and technical assistance ensures including and maintenance of the machinery in different production companies worldwide.
The power loom companies of Biella, they design, develop and produce a vast range of machinery and accessories for each stage of the textile production cycle, machines for preparation, spinning, weaving and knitting, dyeing, finishing, automation systems, and accessories. The continuous technological research, with the in-depth knowledge of the needs of fashion and stylistic creativity have permitted Biella to reach very high qualitative levels in the production of yarns for any purpose, not just for weaving and knitting, but also for flat knitting and hosiery, furnishing and Technical Textiles. A particular specialisation has followed a natural path with the production of precious fibres in the finest counts. The use of the best raw materials and increasingly sophisticated machinery makes the excellent fabrics originating from Biella well liked around the world.
The latest technological innovations lead to materials and product improvements that can make an enormous difference to the outcome, as well as ensuring a commercial edge. Technical fabrics are growingly moving into casual wear, for comfort, ease of use or perhaps the desire to absorb and show off what sports’ activities represent. In Piedmont textile development has therefore focused on an interactive approach, combining chemistry, physics, biology and engineering, to produce fabrics capable of boosting athletic performance, but these can also be used in every day’s wear.
The presence at ITMA
On November 13, 2015, the Textile industry of Piedmont, North Western Italian region, forefront provider of innovative technological solutions, took front stage at a conference at ITMA 2015. The meeting was organised as part of Piemonte Textile Excellence, an integrated sector-specific project managed by Piemonte Agency appointed by the Regione Piemonte, Unioncamere Piemonte and of Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta Chambers of Commerce. The purpose was to provide foreign interlocutors with a preferential channel to get in touch and make business with the regional excellence in the textile and textile broad machinery sectors. The agencies mentioned assist sourcing and other services desired by interested parties.
The conference revealed, amongst others, that Piedmont is able to respond effectively to the main challenges facing the sector, with sustainability and a propensity for aggregation in the foreground.
On a market, where sustainability is a major issue, the Italian textile-clothing supply chain in general, and that of Piedmont in particular, is attentive to markedly reducing environmental impact and the use of polluting or toxic substances.
“ACIMIT, the national umbrella organisation of textile machinery manufacturers, and its commitment to moving in this direction, is reflected with the launch, in 2010 of “Sustainable Technologies”. “A project specifically intended to stress Italian manufacturers’ commitment to researching eco-compatible solutions by supplying environment-friendly, efficient and effective textile technologies, with noteworthy positive spill-over on users, also in terms of reducing production costs,” explained Angelo Vanali, Past President of ACIMIT, the umbrella association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers.
“The textile and textile machinery sector of Piedmont is a provider of innovative, highly beneficial technological solutions, responding effectively to all the main technological challenges identified by the EU. The path initiated by POINTEX will continue, promoting inter-sector and international design capabilities and partnerships. POINTEX is, therefore, amongst the promoters of the newly-established national Textile Technology Platform set up in cooperation with SMI, TexClubTec and the main Italian textile industries” declared Pasquale Campanile, Project Manager of Pointex, an association of businesses, consortia and research organizations whose purpose is to promote industrial competitiveness through cooperative innovation.
“The solution to safeguard the “Made in Italy” value chains, as well as to promote these on international markets, lies in stringent certification of the manufacturing and the product of sustainability. It further means to ensure the transparency of all processing stages, guaranteeing the absence in the product and in the process of chemical substances hazardous to consumers’ health, and for the environment” specified Mauro Rossetti, Director of the Health and Textile Association.
Companies operating in Piemonte are also successfully engaged in various aggregation processes. For example the merger of CAIPO Automazione Industriale, a family enterprise, with the Spanish Pinter, originally a competitor family enterprise. Both are sector leaders in the production of yarn manufacturing machinery and systems, decided to set up a single holding, PINTERCAIPO TECHNOLOGIES, which has moved from a position of cutting-edge competitor to become the sole worldwide leader in their segments. “Three years ago, we decided to focus on internationalisation, enlarging the size of the company and, therefore, boosting its competitiveness. “Today, we can state, that we have overcome this challenge by confirming that aggregation is a winning strategy for small companies that intend to overcome size-specific limits. In order to develop their business and, at the same time, to maintain the attention to details, being at the same time a strong identity trait of a small company, but with an international horizon,” explained Marilena Bolli, Vice President Pinter-Caipo and President of the Employers’ Association of Biella.
The strengths of the textile industry of Piedmont, is a high level performance and quality, these have been forged by technological research, high-tech information services, advanced mechanical and electronic design tools, the use of state-of-the-art, robotised machine tools. A qualified consulting and efficiently organised technical assistance service. These foster optimal insertion and maintenance of the machinery in worldwide manufacturing scenarios.
Biella is in the focus of textile activities
The sector is one of the mainstays of the entire regional economic system and is concentrated mainly in the area of Biella, one of the most important and most highly qualified centres of the world’s wool industry.
Biella’s specific industrial specialisation in the textile sector has stimulated the setting-up and development of numerous textile machinery companies and constant dialogue between customers, suppliers and research centres have permitted the construction of cutting-edge machinery. The textile machine companies of the Biella area design and produce machinery and accessories covering each phase of the textile manufacturing cycle: machines for preparation, spinning, weaving and knitwear, dyeing, finishing, automation systems, accessories. Factors such as technological research, knowledge of the requirements of the fashion industry and creative styling have enabled Biella to achieve the highest standards in the production of yarns for all types of use.
The ITMA exhibitors from Torino-Piedmont
No less than 25 companies from Torino-Piemonte were exhibiting at ITMA in Milano. It is worthwhile to detail the list of such companies in alphabetic order. Some of them are probably not so present to TextileFuture readers and others are renowned worldwide. This is why we offer short portraits of all of them.
Arimo Srl, headquartered in Benna (BI) belongs to the Monteleone Group, a group of firms specialised in textile accessories and machinery, producing flexible card clothing for woollen spinning, worsted spinning, nonwovens, raising fillets, velvet fillets and brushes, special fillets for tanning, for powder scattering and fabric dragging. The continuous search for highest quality raw materials and a constant updating of setting, grinding and hardening machines,, have ensured that the company’s products are appreciated worldwide and are utilised by the most important spinning and finishing customers. As a supplier over the past 30 years and to the most important Italian and overseas carding machinery manufacturers, led to the fact that leading machinery manufacturers recommend ARIMO’s products worldwide.
Bianco S.P.A., headquartered in Alba (CN), is operating since over 40 years in the sector of textile machinery for fabric finishing. The company has since long undertaken its virtuous way aimed at following the principles of a sustainable development with full respect for the environment and for natural resources. Innovation and environmental sustainability are the keywords defining Bianco’s strategy to face the new challenges of the global market by implementing solutions based on innovative development and “green” innovation ensured by the use of alternative materials and the improvement on machines’ performances, as well as to be highly competitive on the international level. www.bianco-spa.com
Biella Shrunk Process, located in Quaregna (BI) was founded 1961 and devotes itself to improve and automate fabric finishing technology. At the base of its R&D work is the tradition of the long wool finishing experience acquired internationally. In the same year, the Autoclave Decatising Machine KD (registered trademark) was on the market. It made quickly a worldwide inroad thanks to its permanent finishing and guaranteed dimensional stability. Besides several attempts to imitate its performance, nowadays over 1200 installations are working all over the world. The daily contact with the finishing technicians of leading wool manufactures in Biella has improved the experience and the quality development research. New technologies were developed, and new systems designed, such as the latest steaming and shrinking machine Nanomix and the powerful pressing and decatising machine Formula 1. www.kd-biella.com
Bonino Carding Machines, headquartered in Sandigliano (BI), is one of the biggest producers of carding machines in the world. The company founded in 1913, is producing woollen, worsted, semi-worsted and nonwoven carding machines. The company offers in more than 100 countries complete lines from fibre preparation to cards. The lines are specifically designed to process virgin and regenerated fibres, both natural and manmade, suitable either for spinning, or the nonwoven sector, including a range of special products such as surgical cotton and de-haired cashmere. All machines are specifically designed, and tailored to meet customer’s requirements. The preparatory machinery range includes rotary cutters, rag tearing machines, bale openers and various types of openers, blending bins, vertical blenders, oiling units, willow cards, etc.). Carding machines entail cotton cards, worsted and semi-worsted cards, woollen condenser sets and nonwoven cards. The offering entails also cross-lappers and drafters. In the nonwoven field, the company produces aerodynamic cards.
Castello Officine, headquartered in Trivero (BI), founded in 1948. Thanks to its long experience, the company has become a high precision firm, assisted by highly sophisticated machinery perfected over years of research, produces exclusive models of temples recognised and esteemed over the world. The company’s factory is capable to meet a vast range of customer requirements. The temples are useable for the entire range of existing fabrics, from fine and delicate to thicker material, from loose to tight weaves, to those with low to high shrinkage on the loom. They can be adapted to any model of weaving machine on the market. www.temple-castello.com and www.castellosistemi.it
Chiorino, founded in 1906 in Biella, is specialised in the production of conveyor belts and transmission belts, following the fundamental values which have always inspired every choice and action of the industrial group. Experience, orientation to the result, assistance and a high level of production cycle are the cornerstones of a company that has achieved excellence in the sector. The firm is a world leader in the production of conveyor and process belt, transmission belts, toothed belts, sleeves and seamless linings in elastomer, multi-layered calandered rubber and polyurethane film. In September 2015 the company opened Chiorino Switzerland Branch providing fabrication and services in Mollis (CH). www.chiorino.com
Cimi Textile Machines has a long tradition in the manufacturing of reliable and technological textile machinery for the finishing of fabrics in water, and it was presenting several models of the celebrated MAT brand. The product range comprises of: Flexifola, a fulling machine with rubber discs and washing of high quality. Lavanova Ecosystem, a modular, continuous open-width machine for the washing of all fabrics and fibres, as well as a wide choice of functions, such as de-sizing, leaching, washing, scouring, fixing, etc., with low use of water and chemical products. Rotodry, a modular cylinder drying system with significantly reduced use of steam; Turbomat, a fulling machine using wooden discs and washing of high quality and mixed fibre fabrics in rope form; Mistral, a washing and softening of fabrics in rope form transported by belt in small batches of up to 150 kilogramme; Supervelox, a washing of fabrics in rope form transported b belt for loads of up to 350 kg; Rotormat, a high speed washing of fabrics in rope form by rotary drum, with incorporated softening and drying. www.cimi.it
Coppa, located in Camburzano (BI) enjoys 40 years of experience in the field of reed manufacturing. It offers products made from the highest quality materials of modern metal technology, built by high precision processes and heat treatments. The products undergo rigorous controls in order to supply customers with the highest possible standards. As a result, it is possible to guarantee maximum product durability, as well as reduced maintenance costs and easy substitution of dents. On September 1, 2014, the BEPPE PLONER group purchased the Sant’Andrea Novara S.p.A. factory in Novara. On completion of the acquisition, the group holds Tecnomeccanica Biellese, the historic company of the family, Coppa S.r.l. of Biella and the newly bought Sant’Andrea Textile Machines, thus the range of machinery offered for the preparation wool spinning is completed. As a result, the company is able to offer complete wool spinning lines for both the carded and combed/semi-worsted sectors through the three companies and commercial agreements. www.coppabiella.it
C.P.S. Tex was founded in 1996 by three partners (Franco Crosa, Gianni Panozo, and Umberto Slio), and the firm today employs 13 people. In order to fully support services, the languages spoken are Italian, Spanish, English, French, Chinese and Russian. The core business is the development and production of the GreenSpin Drive box for Ring Spinning machines and by increasing the efficiency of old spinning machines by extending production capacity, versatility, and quality of yarn and by decreasing power consumption. The installation of the drive box on spinning machines with complete mechanical parts lead to a fully renewed machine and is saving more than 50 % of the price of new machinery. Thanks to the long experience and know-how of OCTIR, Gaudino, Zinser, Cognetex, Marzoli, Savio, and Murata textile machines, the firm is able to provide technical services in woollen, worsted, semi-worsted wool sector, such as programmed maintenance, machineries overall, drive box and head conversion from mechanical to electronic, drafting system modification, and automation updating. www.cps-tex.it
DBT Fibre S.p.A, located in Cerrione (BI) is a world leader in the development and manufacture of tops and slivers for fancy yarns for long staple worsted spinning and short staple cotton spinning systems. DBT Fibre combines the textile heritage of what originally were three independent companies, namely DeMartini Spa in Italy, Achille-Bayart, France and Textifibra, Spain. Located in Biella historical centre of the Italian wool industry and drawing from over 60 years of experience the company is present in all major textile markets and is serving customers through a network of agents in over 40 countries. The product range covers slivers for fancy yarns, multicolour printed slivers, nylon, viscose, Modal, Tencel, and natural fibre tops. www.dbtfibre.com
Flainox, located in Quaregna (BI) is a manufacturer of textile machinery for dyeing and finishing, and specialised in the construction of rotary dyeing machines suitable for all types of garments. Its mission on the international textile market is to offer sustainable construction of increasingly efficient machinery with a low environmental footprint, and this concept entails the entire Flainox product range. The firm has adopted a strategy of sustainable development requiring changes to its way of thinking, consumption, planning and commercial approach. The “carbon footprint” (an equivalent measure of CO2 emissions) has been evaluated for the entire life cycle of its machinery, from the extraction of raw materials to construction to the benefit of the customer and the environment. The results of the conducted study identified areas of revision in the planning system (eco-design), as well as required an improvement of the eco-efficiency of the machinery. The study has guided the company to the development of a new concept, namely “low carbon – low energy – lower operating cost. This concept applies to the entire product range: rotary machines for the dyeing of garments, socks, hosiery and seamless items; machines for the dyeing of yarn on cones and in hanks; machines for the dyeing of hosiery, and a machine for special AIR finishing of fabrics in rope form. www.flainox.com
Lawer, located in Cossato (BI) and founded in 1970 is specialising in the field of industrial automation. Since the start based in Biella, the most important and widely recognised area worldwide for the production of prime quality textiles and yarns, the enterprise offers more than 40 years of experience. It claims that 2500 systems are installed in major textile enterprises worldwide, assuring Lawer’s undisputed leadership in the manufacturing of advanced technology dispensing systems for use in colour labs in dyeing, printing and finishing processes. Lawer became a benchmark in the design and construction of machinery and systems for the dispensing, weighing, mixing and distribution of products and dyes in liquid or powder form, to be used in the processes of dyeing, printing, finishing and ennoblement in the textile industry. The technical solutions offered by the firm entail optimising productivity without causing pollution; reducing consumption in order to contain production costs; rationalising and automating processes in order to eliminate human error; guaranteeing health and safety in departments by eliminating waste from processes; and improving the quality of textile products. www.lawer.com
Mendizza, based in Ponderano (BI) disposes of 20 years of experience in the industrial humidification field, both in the textile and non-textile sector. The company provides services and solutions for the problems that can arise due to low humidity or excessive heat. Thanks of extremely fine micro-droplets, the materials in production absorb and regain the correct humidity levels, making them quicker and easier to work, providing improved results with less impact on the environment. The humidity can be localised on a single machine or generalised throughout the work department or storage depot during the production process. The benefits for customers: stop of electrostatic charges; consistency throughout the production process; temperature reduction; combatting dust formation: improvement of machine performance; preservation and maintenance of product stability; improvement of air quality, and regulation of the reaction of glues and varnishes. The services offered include site survey, production, sale, hire, maintenance. www.mendizza.com
Nuova Cosmatex belongs to the Monteleone group. The company established in the second half of the 1960s is a manufacturer of textile machinery mainly for woollen and worsted spinning and nonwoven plants. It produces successful machinery, such as the carding willow with shaped and singularly inter-changeable teeth, an electronic hopper feeder with double delivery spiked lattices and double mode weight control,., lab or small production carding sets with width up to 1000 mm, sample cards,m sample condenser, laboratory cards and board band feeds for nonwoven, board band feeds, cross-lappers, etc. www.monteleonegroup.it
O.M.V. Officine Meccaniche Viglianesi founded in 1961 and located in Cerreto Castello (BI) specialises in the design and production of machinery and automated systems for the textile industry, as well as for the automobile assembly industry. Besides delivering standard machinery, O.M.V.’s design department is also available to meet customers’ specific needs. Over the last 20 years, O.M.V. has dedicated specific resources to the study and creation of machinery for the vacuum stem treatment of any type of yarn. These machines, designed to be located between the spinning frame and the winding head in a modern concept of continuous spinning, and in order to obtain completely automatic just-in-time production lines for high quality yarns. The different versions, varying in capacity and type, are combinable with any kind of spinning machine with winder available in the market. They can be inserted in-line (VAP 40l and VAP 60L) or adjacent to the winder (VAP 30FL and VAP 40FL).When building such systems it has to be ensured that the transfer of the spools is kept separate from the steam phase to keep dry the entire conveyor line. O.M.V. has created for this purpose a system transferring the spools from the dry circuit to the steam feeder and vice versa.
OBEM SpA, established in 1946 in Biella and produces textile machinery mainly for steam treatments and for dyeing fibre yarns or fabrics in various ways. The achievement of high quality results is the prerogative of its projects. During the last 20 years, the company’s efforts were concentrated its efforts in equipping its machines with a high degree of automation and in many cases of robotisation. Today, with around 6000 machines installed on the five continents, these are processing all kind of fibre and in every form. In 1986, the first fully robotised package dyeing plant was set-up in the U.S.A. The company invested a lot of time to develop robotisation for all kind of machines produced. After nearly 30 years of experience in this field OBEM has installed 54 robotised plants in important textile areas, namely Europe, USA, China, Taiwan, Japan, South Korea, India and Brazil. These plants operate with a very limited number of operators (1-2) per shift and they were developed for wool, cotton, acrylic, polyester, viscose, and blends. It is noteworthy that the machinery and the software are originating from the Biella factory. www.obem.com
Officine Gaudino, established in 1926 in Cossato (BI), offers a vast experience in the construction of a wide range of ring spinning machines for the woollen, worsted, semi-worsted and lined industry. In 2009, the company acquired Lema Lezzeni S.r.l with doubling and twisting ring frames, cops winders, high-speed rewinders, fancy yarn spinning, double stage fancy yarn twisters, machines for preparation to worsted spinning, draft and winding machines for carpet and blanket yarns. The firm invests constantly and growing in R&D to deliver the best and technologically superior product to customers all over the world. www.gaudino.com
Prosino was established in Borgosesia, Northwest Italy, now located in Grignasco (NO) is a manufacturer of spinning and twisting rings. The firm bets on innovation, reliability and quality and is working over 65 years with most OEM leading companies and mills worldwide. In 1947, Pietro Prosino starts to manufacture the Steel Conical Rings, while in 1956 he introduces the spinning rings in 100CR6 Steel, maintaining ov