How to Psych Out Your Adversary, According to ‘Succession’ – Elizabeth Olsen Starts the Day Shoveling Coyote Poop – The Fashion Power Plays of the ‘Succession’ Women
The Editorial Team of TextileFuture invites you for your personal reading to three different features in the new edition of the TextileFuture Newsletter.
The first feature is entitled: “How to Psych Out Your Adversary, According to ‘Succession’. It allows you an insight on psychological surropundings.
The second item bears the title: “Elizabeth Olsen Starts the Day Shoveling Coyote Poop”. It is based upon an interview and shows how Elizabeth Olsen is starting her day.
The third feature has the title: “The Fashion Power Plays of the ‘Succession’ Women” and its about fashion and is decorated with some nice captions.
We, your Edition Team are confident that we made the right reading choices for you, and we do hope you enjoy to read all items. These were previously published in the Wall Street Journal Magazine and are all well written.
If you do want to subscribe to our Newsletter, it will be completely free of cost and delivered to your inbox of your email every Tuesday. Call back again next Tuesday for the next issue of TextileFuture’s Newsletter. Thank you!
For the time inbetween we wish you all success and also for your private life!
The Editorial Team of TextileFuture
This is the start of the first Feature:
How to Psych Out Your Adversary, According to ‘Succession’
The Wall Street Journal Logo
By guest author John Jurgensen from the Wall Street Journal Magazine
Sunday’s episode was a master class in the mind games that can blow up a deal—or speed it forwardow to Psych Out Your Adversary, According to ‘Succession’
April 24, 2023
This article contains spoilers for “Succession” season 4, episode 5.
On this Scandinavian trip, the pastries were a trick, the sauna was a trap and the gondola was a psychological torture chamber.
Instruments of intimidation and gamesmanship were everywhere in the latest episode of “Succession” (titled “Kill List”) as delegates from Waystar Royco found themselves in a foreign land, angling to bring home a fatter sale price for the company. Their rivals, the fit Swedes of GoJo, turned out to be masters of passive-aggressive negotiating tactics. But nobody could top the Roy brothers’ ability to let their insecurities override their bargaining strategy.
Episode 5 brought climax—on a mountaintop—to a sale that “Succession” has been building toward for two seasons. It was a case study in how an unfavorable setting, bad-faith intentions and emotional booby traps can blow up the deal-making process, said Daniel L. Shapiro, director of the Harvard International Negotiation Program, which conducts research and education to address the psychological dimensions of high-stakes conflicts and bargaining.
What I have seen time and time again—working with labor management, Israeli-Palestinian negotiators, hostage negotiations, Wall Street business negotiations—is that the mind-set of the parties is largely predictive of the process and the outcome,” Mr. Shapiro said. “If they have an adversarial mind-set of me versus you, communication will be poor and, surprise, surprise, you end up with ‘Succession.’”
Below, a rundown of the various weapons deployed by each side during the showdown that resulted in an uneasy victory for the Roys.
Disorienting the adversary
“Let’s go bleed the Swede,” says Kendall Roy, leading the charge to get a bigger financial commitment out of GoJo boss Lukas Matsson.
But the Swede had already struck the first blow by summoning Waystar’s entire executive suite and assorted underlings under the guise of assessing “cultural compatibility.”
Roman recognises Matsson’s “sinister” move in marching the Waystar staff to a setting that is essentially home turf: Norway, where the GoJo team is on a retreat.
But the trip’s timing, just days after Logan Roy’s death, represents an even bigger power play. “The Roys are in this place of deep emotional disorientation,” Mr. Shapiro said. “Then when [Matsson] brings them to a place of geographical, social and financial disorientation, they’re trapped. They walk themselves into a hostage situation.”
n the darkened cabin of the corporate jet bound for Norway, the Waystar team frets about their inferiority to their Swedish counterparts, a “Nasdaq master race” of former Olympians and Fulbright scholars.
They draw from a grab bag of cultural stereotypes as they worry about a postmerger cull and psych themselves up for the face-off in Norway.
“Sure, they’re young and they’re fit, but they’re European—they’re soft,” says former interim CEO Gerri Kellman. “Hammocked in their social-security safety net. Sick on vacation mania and free healthcare.”
Then she realizes that their Waystar heritage is more relevant.
“They may think they’re Vikings, but we’ve been raised by wolves,” Gerri says, “exposed to a pathogen that goes by the name Logan Roy.”
Beware the buffet
“Serious Scandi spread here,” says communications guy Hugo Baker as the Waystar delegation tucks into the baked goods overflowing on a serving table.
Tom Wambsgans flags their blunder: “Took the bait. Fattened for the kill,” he says as the GoJo group enters the room, looking lean and presumably pre-fueled.
Hugo, holding his groaning plate, falls back on a familiar strategy of knifing his opponent’s ego. “They tell me you nearly got a bronze at Sochi,” he says to his Swedish equivalent in corp comms. “That’s almost huge, man.”
Weaponizing local customs
Sure, hurling axes and shooting arrows at targets could be part of a typical corporate retreat in America, but for the Americans out of their element in Norway, these background activities add to the atmosphere of menace.
When Matsson’s lieutenant Oskar starts chanting “Sauna! Sauna! Sauna!” it sounds more like a war cry than an invitation to the spa. Naked, sweaty and hyperthermic is no state to be in for the Waystar staffers desperate to establish dominance.
“Hangin’ in the window like Peking duck,” observes exec Karl Muller, cozy by comparison in a bathrobe.
Going up, feeling low
Matsson makes his adversaries ascend, slowly, to his level by way of a gondola to the mountain perch where final deal terms are supposed to be hammered out. He appears to travel express, by helicopter.
The glass box with gorgeous views gets claustrophobic for Waystar’s lead negotiators, Kendall and Roman. Their dad intrudes in the form of a phone call from brother Connor, freaking out about the outfit in which Logan will be buried. And the old guard—Frank, Gerri, Karl—are hovering, pressing the novices not to screw up the bargaining. Maybe lead with a joke?
Kendall, in signature oversimplification mode, writes their target sale price on a clipboard: USD 144 per share. Above: good. Below: bad. Instead, he and Roman should have heeded their sister Shiv when she offers a quote often attributed to Mike Tyson: “Everyone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth.”
A smorgasbord of attacks
The Swede has a Swiss Army knife of moves that undermine the Roys. Matsson greets them with a hood on like a boxer (then flashes some buff torso when he pulls off his anorak). He disses the entourage of Waystar vets that Kendall and Roman have: “You guys scared to come talk without the village elders?”
Even punking them with a USD 1 offer for the company is a tactic. “That’s anchoring,” Mr. Shapiro said. “As ridiculous as it sounds, psychologically it moves the scales in that direction.”
The Roy boys seem incapable of anticipating his manipulations. Even when he aims at their most obvious source of weakness: daddy issues.
Matsson trumps the loss of their dad by invoking the suicide of his own father years before. He ambushes them by putting their dad’s prized asset, ATN, back into the purchase package. And he taps into their anxiety about being pretenders who operate in Logan’s shadow.
“You’re a tribute band!” Matsson says, among other put-downs.
Coalitions and counterattacks
Matsson makes another shrewd move by bonding with Shiv, but the veracity of his creepy story about mailing blood to his employee seems questionable. Also unclear at this point is how Shiv is leveraging that information, or her budding affiliation with Matsson. More coalition shaping: Shiv’s backing of Waystar women Gerri and Karolina, endorsements that seem to get them off GoJo’s kill list.
After the Roy brothers decide to scuttle the sale of Waystar, they use one of the company’s liabilities—a troubled megabudget movie production—to their advantage. Kendall orders up a screening of the turkey (“rough cut, full three hours”) which puts the Swedes into a stupor.
But Matsson recognizes “Kalispitron: Hibernation” for what it is: the Roys’ attempt to scare him out of buying a company saddled with a cursed movie. “Are you ‘Scooby-Doo’ing me?!” Matsson says.
Thin oxygen probably makes everyone extra punchy when the Roys meet Matsson on a mountain peak for a final deal push, but it’s the emotional baggage they all bring to it that causes implosion.
Speaking of dizzying heights, in Mr. Shapiro’s book “Negotiating the Nonnegotiable,” he describes a “vertigo” that people experience when they feel like their identity is under threat in a negotiation. “One is very vulnerable in a state of vertigo,” he said.
Matsson loses his cool, betraying a desperation to close the deal quickly. And when he invokes the Roys’ father yet again, Roman loses it, confessing his hatred for Matsson, blaming him for their father’s death and admitting to derailing the deal.
“It’s a negotiating tactic,” he cries.
But it’s unclear whether the Roys have won or lost when, back on their jet, they hear Matsson’s lights-out offer of USD 192 per share. As the Waystar team cheers the brothers as “conquering heroes,” they look like anything but.
Here is the beginning of the second item:
Elizabeth Olsen Starts the Day Shoveling Coyote Poop
The actress talks about playing an accused murderer, making pottery and her Olsen-sister group text.
Elizabeth Olsen Starts the Day Shoveling Coyote Poop
The actress talks about playing an accused murderer, making pottery and her Olsen-sister group text
By guest author Lane Florsheim from the Wall Street Journal Magazine.
The Wall Street Logo
April 24, 2023
Elizabeth Olsen made her big-screen debut almost 30 years ago, as an unnamed character in a kids’ Western starring her older sisters Mary-Kate and Ashley.
Her second movie role—more than 15 years later—was as a cult survivor struggling with re-entry in “Martha Marcy May Marlene.” She has gone on to play many complicated women, including Marvel’s Wanda Maximoff as well as Taylor Sloane, an influencer with a seemingly perfect life in the black comedy “Ingrid Goes West.”
In her latest project, the Max limited series “Love & Death,” Ms. Olsen, 34, stars as Candy Montgomery, a churchgoing woman who in 1980 was accused of killing her lover’s wife with an ax. Ms. Montgomery’s story also served as source material for last year’s “Candy,” a Hulu limited series starring Jessica Biel. The actresses have spoken about their shared experience playing her.
“It actually was something that connected us. She’s a very impressive and sweet and talented woman,” Ms. Olsen said of Ms. Biel. “I was terrified at first of having the same shows seemingly come out around the same time, and she really made that feel like not such a big deal.”
Ms. Olsen lives in Los Angeles with her husband, the musician Robbie Arnett. Here, she talks about why she wishes she took ax lessons to prepare for the role, her morning routines and what she splurges on.
What time do you get up on Mondays, and what’s the first thing you do after waking up?
I try to wake up around 7:30. I always stretch before making coffee.
How do you like your coffee?
I like my coffee with half-and-half. I’m pretty picky about my half-and-half, because some half-and-halfs are better than others.
What’s the best half-and-half?
Straus or Alexandre Farms.
What about breakfast?
I don’t really eat breakfast until I get hungry, which is usually a few hours after waking up. If I’m home, I try and walk outside as soon as possible. I like looking at my garden. Sometimes I get to shovel coyote poop. Other times, I get a notice that snails are eating my vegetables, and things like that.
Do you have any other hobbies?
Pottery. I’ve been trying to make an entire mug collection for my house. I just threw one out yesterday, I was very upset with the glaze. I think I’ve only got seven right now. I want to get rid of the ones I bought and just have them all be ones that I’ve made.
What’s your exercise routine like?
I started doing Tracy Anderson. It’s a very good workout. I do the ones where you work with bands, because I can’t be doing [dance workouts]. That’s a step too far.
What’s the most helpful thing your assistant or team does for you?
I don’t have an assistant. But because I have a really amazing group of women who I work with, they all give me reminders 24 hours in advance when I have anything. That’s very helpful.
Your next role is Candy Montgomery in “Love and Death.” What did you do to prepare to play her?
I like starting with dialect and voice first with characters that seem outside of myself. Between that and listening to all the disco music in the show, that was the beginning of trying to figure out Candy Montgomery.
Have you met the real Candy Montgomery?
No. The only interview she ever did after the trial was to participate in this book, “Evidence of Love,” that we used as a resource and they optioned for the show. Other than that, she didn’t participate in anything because she wanted to rebuild her life. You kind of honor that and respect it from a distance.
Did you have to take ax lessons?
I wish I did, because the stunt ax was so light. It felt like a baby doll. It was really hard to pretend that it was heavy.
Is there an Olsen sisters group text?
Yes, as you would with your siblings. Yes, of course.
What did you learn about acting from your role in “Martha Marcy May Marlene”?
I didn’t really understand [camera] lenses. The director didn’t really tell me when he was shooting with a long lens. At that moment in my life, I just thought you would just do the same performance regardless of the lens. Now that I know way more about how we shoot, I think it is really helpful with physicality and the framing within a space. For television specifically, it’s really helpful because you’re moving so quickly and you need to be a little bit more exact. But if you have more time with film, there’s a bit more freedom to just try and do the best version of the scene regardless of the lens.
What’s your most prized possession?
I have old family photos of my parents’ upbringing and photos of my mom when she was dancing that I don’t know how I would replace. I should just do the thing where you upload them onto a computer, but I haven’t done that.
What do you splurge on?
I splurge on food. I splurge on nice restaurants. I splurge on good ingredients.
Do you have a favorite restaurant of all time?
I’d say Il Buco in New York City. I’ve celebrated more birthdays at that restaurant than not since I was a teenager.
What makes you feel the most productive?
When I’m really busy. Since I was a child, I’ve always been able to be my most productive self when I have 100 things going on in the day.
What do you do for self-care and to relax?
Reading. My favorite way to spend a cocktail hour at 5 o’clock is at home with a cocktail and reading. The sun’s changing. That’s my favorite time of the day.
What have you been reading lately?
I’m reading a book called “A Fine Balance,” [by Rohinton Mistry]. It’s very long. Carrie Coon recommended it to me, and so I stuck with it even though it was hard to really get hooked. It took like 200 pages. At one point I stopped and read an Ottessa Moshfegh book, [“Death in Her Hands”], and came back to it.
What’s one piece of advice you’ve gotten that’s been important to you?
Everything happens for a reason. It’s hard to remember that sometimes.
This is the start of the last feature of today:
The Fashion Power Plays of the ‘Succession’ Women
The Wall Street Logo
By guest author Rory Satran from the Wall Street Journal Magazine.
April 29, 2023
Succession”—just not the characters of “Succession.” When you’re as privileged as the fictional Roys and their cohort, fashion is often less about communicating opulence and more about appearing in control. Expensive clothing is a given; how you wear it is not.
As brands and style-chasers clamor to define “Succession”-fueled style, from “stealth wealth” to “old money” to “low-key rich bitch,” the show’s characters mostly want to look powerful and inconspicuous enough to have a seat at the table. Ideally, at its head.
“Clothing is one way to express power and strength in whatever tale you’re trying to tell,” said Michelle Matland, the show’s costume designer.
For the female characters on “Succession,” their paths to power—and what they wear to achieve it—are not always as clear as their male counterparts. Because the HBO show takes place in male-driven corporate America, it’s one of the rare shows where the men’s luxury fashion takes center stage, from Kendall’s obsessively try-hard discretion to Logan’s now-legendary Loro Piana hats. In this world, men still rule, and their uniforms to do so are more prescribed.
If the women’s costumes can feel harder to pin down, it’s because the characters are still figuring out how to appear powerful.
Sometimes the women on the show nail it—and sometimes, their choices cleverly show they don’t. When the patriarch’s only daughter, Shiv Roy, wears an Alexander McQueen houndstooth blazer with a black turtleneck and black pumps, she conveys winning, self-possessed energy. But her sartorial missteps—from the much-maligned floral Ted Baker sheath for her mother’s wedding to this season’s drab brown elastic-waist Max Mara suit—are dissected by fans and critics.
As soon as an episode airs, social media sleuths such as the @successionfashion Instagram account use tactics including reverse Google image searches to track down the exact pieces. Whether fans give thumbs-up or thumbs-down to the characters’ outfits, the inconsistencies of Shiv and the others go a long way in making the characters three-dimensional. She’s not Business Barbie; she’s a real person who occasionally gets it wrong.
When female characters fail to get the memo on how to dress, they’re sacrificial lambs. One of season four’s indelible moments involved Greg bringing a hapless date to Logan’s funeral. Tom’s line about her “ludicrously capacious” Burberry bag instantly became a meme. Her cluelessness was made evident by her gauchely humongous tote. She may have tried her best to look polished, but the most polished move would be to carry no purse at all, like the nonchalant Naomi Pierce.
In “Succession,” true luxury is not buying designer things, but avoiding drawing attention to yourself in the wrong way. “It’s about using clothing to show that they don’t care that much about clothing. In this world, that’s the power move,” said Amy Odell, the author of the “Back Row” newsletter and creator of weekly “Succession” fashion-recap videos.
Here are a few of the ways the women of “Succession” use fashion to leverage their positions.
Shiv Roy’s Puzzling Pantsuits
t’s no surprise that Shiv, played by Sarah Snook, gets it the most right—and the most wrong. The maneuvering, complex heiress to the Roy fortune is quite simply trying to do the most: to seduce, to blend in, to stand out, to look powerful, to remain feminine, to avoid her femininity, to seem liberal, to be neutral, to be businesslike—but also cool. It’s an exhausting motive-medley.
Mostly, Shiv plays the conquering hero in a wardrobe of tailoring from designers including Ralph Lauren, Alexander McQueen and Gabriela Hearst, with accents of delicate, unidentifiable gold jewelry and a Cartier Panthère watch. She is, as we’ve all noticed, the queen of a certain kind of divisive paperbag-waisted pant that accentuates the waist over a tight knitted top. (It remains to be seen how the show will accommodate both the character and the actor’s pregnancies, which Ms. Matland admitted was a challenge.)
We’ve also seen a radical evolution. Lest we forget, in season one Shiv had long, wavy hair and wore Fair Isle sweaters. She “has changed very dramatically…going from trying to be antifamily to being corporate,” Ms. Matland said. Over four seasons, the bob has become sharper, the looks more graphic. Midway through season four, there’s a fierceness to her femininity as well, including blazers with no shirt in Sunday’s episode six.
Ultimately, she’s trying to prove her mettle through each pinstripe pantsuit and smooth Skims bodysuit. Ms. Odell said that Shiv is “trying to project seriousness and show that she’s not frivolous,” pointing to her father’s damning line that she and her brothers were “not serious people.” She continued, “She knows in the back of her mind that her dad sees her that way, and she has to compensate for that.”
Gerri Kellman’s Pelosi Power Dresses
Gerri Kellman, Waystar Royco’s general counsel, one-time interim CEO and often its highest-ranking woman, is of “The Good Wife” and Nancy Pelosi school of fashion—that lawyers and executives can wear feminine clothing and still be taken seriously. She wears form-fitting jackets; pearls; “power dresses.” The Pelosi connection was underlined when the character, played by J. Smith Cameron, wore a red coat exactly like the former speaker’s famous Max Mara piece.
Gerri, like Mrs. Pelosi, is such an anomaly in her environment that she is unafraid of drawing attention to it. There’s no hiding that she’s an older woman in a younger man’s world, so she might as well dress the way she wants to, whether that be a low-cut dress with a serious necklace, or a jaunty off-kilter hat (like the one she wore to Connor’s wedding in season four).
When asked about how she imagines that the executive shops, Ms. Matland said she thinks Gerri has a stylist who sends things to her apartment.
“But I think on her weekends,” she said, “she enjoys going out with a girlfriend, perhaps. Having lunch and going to Saks or Bergdorf.”
Willa Ferreyra’s Stepford Style
Willa Ferreyra, the sex worker turned playwright turned political wife, is still learning how to leverage her considerable personal power into more far-reaching clout. But she’s learning. As played by the actor Justine Lupe, Willa has evolved from wearing bohemian dresses, chokers and Bambi-shaky heels to her own polished version of a first wife.
Even when Willa’s life is spinning out of control, as when she drunkenly leaves her own rehearsal dinner in this season, she seems to be learning the Roy art of control in her spotlessly white blazer. Some have noted the “Ivankification” of Willa’s hair as it becomes blonder and straighter. Ms. Matland said that was intentional, noting, “She lost a lot of her wild woman to be the wife on the arm of a possible politician.”
But Willa is not quite White House-ready yet, with her miniskirt sets from French high-street brand Sandro.
Naomi Pierce’s Spot-On Sophistication
Media heiress Naomi Pierce, sometime-girlfriend of Kendall, may have less airtime than other characters, but is often described as the most fashionable woman on the show. Her style hews true to the coastal-elite wardrobe, with shades of simple sophisticates like Sofia Coppola or Gwyneth Paltrow. She usually wears black-and-white separates by designers including Proenza Schouler and Marina Moscone.
Annabelle Dexter-Jones, who plays Naomi, describes the character’s style as a collaboration with Ms. Matland. Ms. Dexter-Jones said she took a page from the book of Jeremy Strong, the notorious Method actor who plays Kendall, by thinking deeply about her character’s choices on a granular level. She used a pair of her own restrained Sophie Buhai pearl earrings for the character. And she decided that Naomi doesn’t use a phone case—because who cares if she drops her phone?
“Sometimes when the world around you feels very out of control, and when things feel very messy,” Ms. Dexter-Jones said, “we turn to the things we can control.” Like phone cases, handbags and blouses—or deciding to go without.
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