Fashion Luggage for Style-Conscious Travelers: 5 Expert Picks – Don’t Travel Heavily – Estela Chef Ignacio Mattos Opens His First Fine-Dining Restaurant – Why Men’s Clothing Is Losing Its Collars, Buttons and Pockets – High Fashion Shows Its Wild Side

 

Fashion Luggage for Style-Conscious Travelers: 5 Expert Picks – Don’t Travel Heavily – Estela Chef Ignacio Mattos Opens His First Fine-Dining Restaurant – Why Men’s Clothing Is Losing Its Collars, Buttons and Pockets – High Fashion Shows Its Wild Side”

Dear Readers,

Today, the editorial team of TextileFuture presents to you five features for your reading.

The first item presents to you “Fashion Luggage for Style-Conscious Travelers: 5 Expert Picks”

The second feature is very short and an ex-airhostess gives you some hints on how you should pack when you travel. It is entitled “Don’t Travel Heavily.”

The third item bears the title “Estela Chef Ignacio Mattos Opens His First Fine-Dining Restaurant” in New York (USA) and will allow you an insight of what Ignacio Mattos plans and thinks.

The fourth feature explains “Why Men’s Clothing Is Losing Its Collars, Buttons and Pockets”.

The fifth item is entitled “High Fashion Shows Its Wild Side” in Portugal and is beautfully illustrated with captions (and price tags).

We recommend that you read all of them, because these are pictures and all are written well and they were published before in the Wall Street Journal Magazine. We are proud to bring all to your attention.

We do hope that you will enjoy reading and viewing all the features offered.

Please call back next Tuesday for the next issue of TextileFuture’s Newsletter. If you prefer to have it delivered directly to your email in-box, feel free to sign a free of cost subscription of TextileFuture’s Newsletter.

Have a good week ahead and we wish you all possible success in business and private life!

The Editorial Team of TextileFuture

 

 

Here starts the first item:

 

By Laura Neilson from the Wall Street Journal Magazine.

WITH A DIZZYING number of luggage brands on the market, zeroing in on a new, well-constructed suitcase to fit your particular travel needs—not to mention your ski gear or that ambitious stack of beach reads—can seem like a herculean task. When shoppers visit Paradise Baggage’s retail outpost in Englewood, Colo. (where nearby Denver International Airport is currently the world’s third busiest hub), co-owner Jenni Paradise often advises them to come back later with clothing, shoes and other packables in tow. “[You need to] bring your things in. Pack them up. See how it feels when you pull a suitcase around the store,” said Ms. Paradise, whose family has been in the luggage business since 1977. Globe-trotting travel television host Samantha Brown concurs, and wisely suggested another strategy: Vigorously jiggling the case’s handle. “If it makes lots of noise,” she said, “it’s probably too loose and is not going to hold on.”

To further narrow the field, Ms. Paradise, who sells over 60 different brands of luggage and accessories at her namesake shop, also suggested looking for bags with a mix of ample storage space and organizational aids, and infallibly sturdy handles and wheels (since those are the items that most commonly require repair). With those must-haves in mind, and input from some inveterate jet-setters, we settled on five categorical winners likely to please travellers with an eye for both fashion and function.

5 Fab Hard-Case Bags for Every Preference and Personality

For Fashion Fanatics

For Maria Mantero, 49, a luxury fashion consultant in Milan, Globe-Trotter’s retro-inspired cases are the ne plus ultra of good-looking luggage, evoking trans-Atlantic voyages on the Cunard Line. “I love [them] because they’re stylish and always stand out,” she said. But plenty of substance buttresses the style. Ms. Mantero’s monogrammed two-wheeled roller features leather corners, wraparound belting and a sturdy vulcanized fiberboard construction designed to meet the demands of modern-day travel. These selling points, she reports, make it a faithful companion for long weekend train trips across Europe. Safari Large Check-In Suitcase, USD2995, us.Globe-Trotter.com

For OCD Packers

Annie Culbertson, a 22-year-old retail buyer in Washington, D.C., said her black Aviator suitcase from Paravel has helped curb her tendency to overpack for quick weekend trips. The New York City-based company, which offers both carry-ons and bags to check, caters to hyper-organized travelers by outfitting its cases with smart interior pockets, a removable laundry bag, and a set of stylish, monogram-optional packing cubes (sold separately) in various sizes. Ms. Culbertson also likes that her Aviator, the brand’s flagship model, is made from upcycled materials and is billed as the “world’s first carbon-neutral suitcase.” Aviator Carry-On Plus, USD 375, TourParavel.com

For the Perk-Conscious

Other luggage brands may boast lifetime warranties, but Tumi’s comprehensive five-year repair policy and top-notch service appeals to longtime customer George Fleck, 47, vice president and global brand leader for St. Regis Hotels & Resorts. “As someone whose job revolves around providing exceptional service, I’ve been very impressed with Tumi’s [offerings],” said Mr. Fleck, a frequent flier who’s sent his carry-on in for zipper repairs and replacement handles. Another enticement: Mr. Fleck said Tumi also cleans the suitcase before sending it back post-servicing. “It’s a really nice touch.” Short Trip Expandable 4 Wheeled Packing Case, USD 825, Tumi.com

For the Carry-On Crowd

Away’s carry-on roller is considered the industry-standard cabin bag by many folks for a reason. It’s lightweight and easy-to-maneuver, with several smart design features, including an expandable zipper function and an optional USB charger. We appreciate the minimal aesthetic too, which makes the case look pricier than it is. Matt Barrett, 35, a marketing professional based in Toronto, recently purchased an Away case in navy. Aside from the deceptively spacious dual compartments (“I can really pack a lot in!”), he said he appreciates its proportions. “Regardless of the airline, it always fits in the overhead—which has been a pain point for me in the past.” Carry-On Flex Suitcase, USD 325, AwayTravel.com


This is the start of the second feature:

DON’T TRAVEL HEAVILY

Space-saving packing tips from an ex-flight attendant

Airlines are cracking down on travelers who try to smuggle on body-bag-sized duffels to avoid check-in fees, so to compress your load into the most compact, uncriminal form, heed these tips from Sue Mushaweh, a recently retired American Airlines flight attendant.

  • Tightly roll clothing and leave no inch unused—even shoes can be stuffed with underwear and socks.
  • If you carry a purse, slip it inside a larger backpack or tote.
  • Sign up for an airline rewards program for priority-enabling perks. “If you get on first, you’re gonna get space,” she said.
  • On the flip side, stragglers sometimes have an advantage in avoiding check-in fees: “If there’s no room [in the bins], they’ll take your bag, and you won’t have to pay for it.”

The Wall Street Journal is not compensated by retailers listed in its articles as outlets for products. Listed retailers frequently are not the sole retail outlets.

www.wsj.com

 

Here starts the third feature:

 

Why Men’s Clothing Is Losing Its Collars, Buttons and Pockets

An extreme minimalism trend sees men seeking garments that couldn’t be any plainer

By Max Berlinger from the Wall Street Journal Magazine

Dec. 7, 2022

AT SOME POINT in the last two years, the London menswear designer and tailor Charlie Casely-Hayford noticed that clients were requesting clothes devoid of embellishments. They weren’t just hinting that flourishes like embroidery be banished; they craved blazers that jettisoned standard design features—lapels, pockets, even fasteners. On one suit, “we completely got rid of buttons,” he said. “We’re always looking to push the boundaries of modern tailoring, and this felt very natural.”

Clients of other designers are demanding absolutely nothing, too. At Clothsurgeon, a bespoke streetwear label on Savile Row, Rav Matharu makes leather jackets conspicuously missing buttons and collars. And in New York, Jake Mueser, founder of J. Mueser, is fielding requests for unstructured, spartan jackets in basic shades. “A few years ago everything was over-designed,” he said. Now, guys want “hidden plackets, hidden buttons—something streamlined.”

A new age of extreme minimalism is seemingly upon us. Whether for work or play, men are slipping into clothing that consists of little more than flaps of (beautiful, precision-cut) fabric. Such designs push the limits of deconstructed tailoring, a well-established movement in menswear that eschews lining and extras like shoulder pads. Light, breezy and often notably comfortable, these pieces serve as a balm for anyone weary of the loud, logoed confections that amass likes on social media. They make Scandi minimalism look positively Baroque. Indeed, they’re so quiet they almost feel rebellious, said Mr. Casely-Hayford.

‘Perhaps we’re trying to let go of our baggage.’

It’s not just custom tailoring that’s sating the appetite for chaste garments. Post-lockdown, minimalist ready-to-wear designs are increasingly popular, said Federico Barassi, vice president of menswear buying at Canadian retailer Ssense. On the Ssense site, you can pick up strikingly plain pieces like a black Maison Margiela blazer that’s an elegant shell; good luck spotting a button on it.

“Perhaps we’re trying to let go of our baggage,” said Elyssa Dimant, author of “Minimalism and Fashion: Reduction in the Postmodern Era.” During the “wartime of Covid,” as she put it, maximalist trends such as tie-dye prints and puffy women’s sleeves had a comforting, nostalgic appeal. Since minimalism symbolizes efficiency, she said, it’s unsurprising that folks are now craving simpler garb. The thinking, she said, is, “Let’s get back to work!”

Beyond signalling “business as usual,” stripped-back clothing can be versatile. Unadorned garments can suit various body shapes and have sharp, severe silhouettes or flowing, romantic ones. Yet, with no flourishes to add intrigue or hide flaws, they’re deceptively tricky to create, said Mr. Mueser. “The tailoring has to be immaculate, the lines have to be perfect,” he said. Success relies on the fit and the drape.

Earlier this year Mr. Casely-Hayford created several subdued suits for Alex Flick, a London gallerist. Mr. Flick wanted professional-looking work ensembles with a modern edge. He said he tasked Mr. Casely-Hayford with removing “as much material as possible, so the jackets and trousers really ‘fall,’ without any kind of structure to give artificial shape.”

His favourite of the resulting designs: a brown, buttonless suit with “jetted pockets” whose openings are marked by thin strips of fabric, rather than flaps. It’s sewn from a “very, very light” wool, said Mr. Flick, and can be shrugged over a black tee or a crisp white button-up.

Best of all, he said, the unfussy creation is exceedingly comfy. “I think Karl Lagerfeld said you have lost control of your life once you start wearing sweatpants,” said Mr. Flick, who noted that his ensemble’s comfort levels rival that of sweats without the slovenly vibe Mr. Lagerfeld abhorred. “It’s a dream piece of clothing.”

Five stripped-back standouts to consider

Clockwise from bottom left, Shoes, USD 195, FearOfGod.com; Overcoat, USD 925, Casely-Hayford.com; Blazer, USD 290, Cos.com; Pants, USD 400, Arcteryx.com; Issey Miyake Shirt, USD 264, Farfetch.comPhoto: Farfetch (Issey Miyake)

The Wall Street Journal is not compensated by retailers listed in its articles as outlets for products. Listed retailers frequently are not the sole retail outlets.

www.wsj..com

 

 

Here is the beginning of the fourth feature:

Estela Chef Ignacio Mattos Opens His First Fine-Dining Restaurant

The Michelin-starred chef shares his morning routine—early wake-up, cereal and oat milk—and the fine-dining problems he wants to solve.

By guest author By Lane Florsheim| Photography by Jesper Lund for WSJ. Magazine

Dec. 5, 2022

Ignacio Mattos is an uptown, midtown and downtown kind of guy. The Michelin-starred chef, 43, likes to start his day with a stroll in Central Park. “I’m kind of shocked to have discovered the luxury of being able to wake up and walk in it,” says Mattos, who moved to the Upper West Side in 2021. “The landscaping of that place is absolutely insane.”

Later, after a workout with his trainer, Mattos might swing down to Lodi, his Italian cafe and bar in Rockefeller Plaza, or one of his handful of downtown spots: Estela and Altro Paradiso in SoHo, plus Corner Bar, Swan Room and—as of its opening early next year—Amado Grill, all of which are located in the Nine Orchard hotel in Chinatown.

Amado, which marks the chef’s first fine-dining restaurant, has an underwater theme and an emphasis on charcoal grilling. “Growing up, we were always cooking with fire,” says Mattos, who was born and raised in Uruguay. “How can we make this primal technique refined and elevate it?” The cozy, 40-seat restaurant has bronze seashell lighting fixtures, light-blue walls and oval murals depicting oceanic scenes by the artist Harold Ancart that are meant to evoke the portholes of a submarine. At the time of our interview, Mattos is considering how he might be able to incorporate whale calls and other ocean sounds into the restaurant’s soundtrack, though he says he isn’t set on that.

Mattos, who got his start working under Francis Mallmann and then Alice Waters, opened his first restaurant, Estela, in 2013 with his then-partners Thomas Carter and Mark Connell. Now Mattos oversees his own group, Mattos Hospitality. Here, he speaks to WSJ. about his love of soup, his favorite place to dine solo and how he and his girlfriend, the food artist Laila Gohar, give feedback on each other’s work.

Handwritten lists keep Mattos organised. “Writing with a pen or pencil is an incredible relationship.”

What time do you get up on Mondays, and what’s the first thing you do after waking up?

Between 5 and 6 a.m. I usually go for a walk in Central Park. I have coffee first, and if I need to treat myself, some cereal and oat milk, which is one of my favorite things.

How do you stay organised?

I do a lot of [handwritten] lists. It’s the only way. I think we process things differently. I really love having my notebook; it’s very meditative to me to make sure it looks a certain way. My girlfriend makes fun of it, because of how meticulous I can be.

What’s your exercise routine?

I have a trainer who I see twice a week. Every day, I do push-ups and a bit of abs and stretching—20-minute little sessions.

You’re opening Amado, your third restaurant in the Nine Orchard hotel. 

The idea was to create a few different universes, this one taking inspiration from Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea, going into this journey underwater and having that serenity you have when you are diving, that time stops.

Is there anything that you don’t like about the current fine-dining scene?

The time is too long. Too much food. I think [there’s] a way to find a balance on the whole experience. After seven courses, I don’t think anything really matters any longer. The same thing after you have seven different wines. I think hedonism, it’s good. It’s good to treat ourselves, but at the same time we need to be smart about what we put into our bodies. It’s important that after eating or treating yourself to an experience, you feel good. You go out and it’s like you need to feel like you [could] die in order to feel that it had value.

What’s your favorite meal to cook for yourself?

Soup. I could eat soup every single day. Red lentil soup: I just do half an onion, lentil, white wine, water. You really don’t need anything, and you have something that’s extremely magical.

How do you and Laila inspire each other’s work?

At times, it’s just talking and sharing a worry, an insecurity. And being able to be bluntly honest about your view but, at the same time, very thoughtful about not hurting someone’s feelings. She’s pretty obsessive too, so she understands and relates to that. But I think we all doubt ourselves about whether it was good enough. It’s nice to have someone who can remind you, No, that was good enough.

What’s your favorite restaurant that’s not one of your own?

I love Zuni Café in San Francisco. I love the timeless element and the food, its beautiful ingredients handled with integrity. The light.

Who do you go to for advice?

Laila. Gilbert [Pilgram, the chef-owner of Zuni Café]. My lawyer [Steven Manket]. My lawyer is a sweetheart and a very wise individual. My sister knows me in a way that not many people do. [Siblings] see through absolutely everything.

Where do you go to eat alone?

Hasaki, in the East Village. Houseman, I was there last night. My favorite places are the places I have staples. Some people like to do things different every day, but I really like to go to this place and know that I can have that salad. I like to feel like I know where I’m going and what I’m going to get.

What do you do to relax?

I love watching movies. Documentaries, classic films on Criterion. Sometimes it can be simple, like crime documentaries on Netflix. That’s a place I can truly disconnect. I watch movies in the morning; I usually fall asleep with a movie and finish it in the morning.

What’s one piece of advice you’ve gotten that’s guided you?

To shut up. I have voices in my head just saying to shut up. And it works. I think we all need to learn to listen, not just to ourselves but also to others.

5 Monday Must-Haves

Photo: SHUTTERSTOCK

“You could consider it a vice.”

Photo: COURTESY OF WILLIAM EADON EAU DE PARFUM

William Eadon No. 11 Eau de Parfum

“I’ve been using it for the last six years now.”

Photo: MUJI

A Muji Pen and Notebook

“This has to be my favourite pen by far. I feel lost without it.”

Photo: courtesy of DR. HAUSCHKA

Dr. Hauschka Day Oil

“My skin-care routine typically consists of stealing from my girlfriend.”

Photo: COURTESY OF ALTRO PARADISO

Altro Paradiso Hat

“The cap goes well with all of my outfits and represents a place that’s my second home.”

Corrections & Amplifications
The chef Ignacio Mattos’s new restaurant, Amado Grill, is set to open in New York in early 2023. An earlier version of this article gave the opening date as December, and after this article was published, a representative said that the opening was postponed. (Dec. 7)

www.wsj.com

 

This is the start of the last item:

 

High Fashion Shows Its Wild Side

Sleek, easy chic takes shape in the wild countryside of Portugal, with long, flowing lines that echo the endless horizon.

By Bibi Cornejo Borthwick, photographer, for WSJ. Magazine | Styling by Kate Phelan

Celine by Hedi Slimane dress, USD 4250, Celine​.com

 

Gucci coat, USD 4980, shirt, USD 980, and cuffs, USD 4,690, Gucci​.com, Valentino shoes, USD 980, select Valentino boutiques.

 

Valentino jacket, USD 4500, dress, USD 3980, and shoes, USD 980, Valentino boutiques

 

Stella McCartney dress, price upon request, StellaMcCartney.com

 

Louis Vuitton top, price upon request, LouisVuitton​.com
Alexander McQueen dress, USD 3650, and belt, USD 1290, AlexanderMcQueen​.com, Khaite boots, USD 1480, Khaite​.com.

 

Balenciaga Garde-Robe coat, USD 4800, and shirt, USD 2090, Balenciaga​.com, Gabriela Hearst shoes, USD 890, GabrielaHearst.com

 

Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello dress, USD 4790, YSL​.com

 

Loewe top, USD 3400, Loewe​.com, Burberry pants, USD 1290, US.Burberry​.com

 

Dolce & Gabbana shirt, USD 1895, tank top, USD 525, and pants, USD 1395, DolceGabbana​.com, Gabriela Hearst shoes, USD 890, GabrielaHearst​.com, Agmes ring, USD 250, AgmesNYC​.com

 

The Row dress, USD 2450, top, USD 1290, and scarf, USD 390, TheRow.com. Model, Sacha Quenby at Women Management; hair, Rudi Lewis; makeup, Lucy Bridge; manicure, Claudia Mota; production, We Folk

www.wsj.com

 

 

 

Newsletter of last week

Louis Vuitton x Yayoi Kusama: A Playfully Chic Collaboration – Fashion: How Moncler’s Remo Ruffini is Future-Proofing the Brand – Fashion Give Your Face a Winter Makeover – Kate Middleton’s Style Stays on Message Amid Ongoing Royal Turmoil.

 

For your convenience, please just click on the subject.

 

Artificial Intelligence

The Future of Everything: How AI That Powers Chatbots and Search Queries Could Discover New Drugs  https://textile-future.com/archives/101651

Awards

Young Scientist Award: Lenzing’s prize for innovative solutions in the fibre and textile industry https://textile-future.com/archives/101540

Sixteen EU-supported films compete at the 2022 European Film Awards https://textile-future.com/archives/101605

Bitcoin

There Is No Free Money in Bitcoin https://textile-future.com/archives/101389

Companies

BASF Pharma Solutions excipient accepted into FDA Pilot Programme for novel excipients  https://textile-future.com/archives/101299

Disney Needs to Do More With Less on Streaming https://textile-future.com/archives/101328

Data

The McKinsey Week in Charts  https://textile-future.com/archives/101218

22% of intensive care hours for COVID-19 patients in Switzerland https://textile-future.com/archives/101249

OECD inflation rises to 10.7 % in October 2022, as food prices continue to accelerate in most countries https://textile-future.com/archives/101335

40188 new businesses were created in Switzerland in 2020 https://textile-future.com/archives/101371

Air passengers up 35 % in 2021 following 2020 decline https://textile-future.com/archives/101399

Destatis visits Eurostat  https://textile-future.com/archives/101498

How much does labour cost per hour in the EU? https://textile-future.com/archives/101506

117 million in the EU worked in science & technology  https://textile-future.com/archives/101610

Death

She Preached Death Without Fear. Could She Practice It? https://textile-future.com/archives/101658

EU

InvestEU: EIB invests EUR 36.7 million in eco-friendly battery material production in Germany https://textile-future.com/archives/101262

2022 European Year of Youth: ‘Claim the future’ conference to officially close the year https://textile-future.com/archives/101282

Equality Package: The Commission proposes new rules for equality bodies and the recognition of parenthood between Member States https://textile-future.com/archives/101386

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Actions: EUR 1.75 billion in new calls for researchers and institutions https://textile-future.com/archives/101395

Zero pollution: 2030 targets within reach but need stronger action https://textile-future.com/archives/101478

Taxation: VAT in the Digital Age and Directive on Administrative Cooperation (DAC8) https://textile-future.com/archives/101487

ICT security measures used by EU enterprises in 2022 https://textile-future.com/archives/101490

Joint US-EU stakeholders outreach on Investment Screening (virtual) https://textile-future.com/archives/101554

EU requests two WTO panels against China: trade restrictions on Lithuania and high-tech patents https://textile-future.com/archives/101563

REPowerEU: New industrial Alliance to boost the EU’s solar power and energy security https://textile-future.com/archives/101603

Joint statement by the President of the European Commission, Ursula von der Leyen, and the President of Chile, Gabriel Borichttps://textile-future.com/archives/101638

Cyber Daily: European Privacy Regulators Crack Down on Meta’s Targeted Ad Practices  https://textile-future.com/archives/101707

Event

Marzoli at India ITME 2022 https://textile-future.com/archives/101374

Finances

Redemption of UBS Group AG additional tier 1 instrument  https://textile-future.com/archives/101293

Five from Finland

Five From Finland: Natural cosmetics https://textile-future.com/archives/101304

Gifts

A MORE SUSTAINABLE LUXURY GIFT GUIDE https://textile-future.com/archives/101521

Mosquito Nets

Joint News Release:  BASF and MedAccess complete shipment of 35 million Interceptor® G2 nets to fight malaria  https://textile-future.com/archives/101511

New Zealand

New Zealand on a Plate https://textile-future.com/archives/101566

36 Hours in Wellington, New Zealand  https://textile-future.com/archives/101574

Personalities

Leadership – After Iger: what businesses can learn from Disney’s CEO succession failure https://textile-future.com/archives/101599

Swiss Federal Council elects two new members to the Innosuisse Board of DirectorsSwiss Federal Council elects two new members to the Innosuisse Board of Directors  https://textile-future.com/archives/101627

Positive Luxury

A portrait of Skydiamond and an interview with environmentalist Dale Vince OBE https://textile-future.com/archives/101481

Prisoner Swap

Inside the Prisoner Swap That Freed Brittney Griner https://textile-future.com/archives/101702

Retailing

Frasers Group profits surge 53 % as acquisition spree drives https://textile-future.com/archives/101468

What’s Next for Joules under its new owner? https://textile-future.com/archives/101710

Science

Innosuisse Certificate for Empa spin-off: Ready for sustainable growth  https://textile-future.com/archives/101416

Swiss Empa: Surfaces with antiviral properties – Watching viruses fail https://textile-future.com/archives/101455

New materials for the computer of the future  https://textile-future.com/archives/101546

Sustainability

Lenzing and Renewcell sign large-scale supply agreement further closing the loop in fashion https://textile-future.com/archives/101350

BASF SE and its partners publish year six impacts for ‘Pragati’, the world’s first sustainable castor bean programme https://textile-future.com/archives/101462

Switzerland

COMCO Secretariat investigates the labour market in the banking sector in Switzerland  https://textile-future.com/archives/101255

Switzerland and Poland launch second Swiss contribution https://textile-future.com/archives/101285

US steel and aluminium duties: WTO panel rules in favour of Switzerland  https://textile-future.com/archives/101617

USA

The Iowa caucuses were a place where the improbable became possible  https://textile-future.com/archives/101318

Juul to Pay USD 1.7 Billion in Legal Settlement  https://textile-future.com/archives/101647

Uzbekistan

ITM Exhibition Expands Its Success to Central Asia Regions: ITM Uzbekistan  https://textile-future.com/archives/101268

Worth Reading  

Luxury BoF Insights | The New Statement Shoe: Reimagining Designer Footwear https://textile-future.com/archives/101432

WTO

WTO circulates dispute panel reports regarding US measures on steel and aluminium products https://textile-future.com/archives/101644